Oil Leaks, Dodgy Charge Lights, And Lost Posts, Oh My

Are ya having a problem with your rig? We'll try to help. Share your tech tips and experiences here. Dr. Billy Glaser, author of the "Unofficial 750 Ural Service Manual" site myural.com, is moderating this section.
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Here is the place for you to ask questions about or share your experiences about servicing or repairing your Ural or Dnepr. Please post topics concering modifications or accesories in the "Modifications and Acessories" section. Please post oil related questions in the "Oil Threads" section.
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Korto
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Oil Leaks, Dodgy Charge Lights, And Lost Posts, Oh My

Post by Korto » Fri Feb 15, 2019 10:02 am

NOOOOO!!!! This bloody thing ate my post! :shock:

I had a long, descriptive (maybe a little rambling) post, and it's gone. :cry: Took me like farking hours...

OK, I'll re-write it, but massively abbreviated.

Long story short--On a ride, had distributor trouble, ended up riding home 20kph on one cylinder, and she was bitching all the way. Distributor now fixed. However, since then issues have arisen, and I don't know if it's related to the trouble.

1) Charge light acting funny. It no longer goes on when revving. It still goes on when the electrics are switched on but the bike isn't running, so the connections and globe are good. And the last time I was working on her, she had 6.2V in the battery when I started her, and 6.3V when I switched her off, so she's charging. But the light isn't coming on.

2) Oil leaks. After a while of fast idling, it starts a slow drip out of both cylinders, and a fast unbroken trickle out of the front and back of the generator. Someone suggested it may be a blocked crankcase vent.

3) Difficult to start, needing often a dozen kicks. This is probably because I adjusted the carbs to get it going again when I had the distributor trouble. An oddity is that the choke now affects the bike again. It didn't before, hot or cold the choke had no effect. Now it does. :?

4) I hate engineers. More info on that when it isn't 1 in the frigging morning.
Australia, Newcastle. 1972 Dnepr MT-9... mostly... I think...

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jaybird
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Re: Oil Leaks, Dodgy Charge Lights, And Lost Posts, Oh My

Post by jaybird » Fri Feb 15, 2019 1:08 pm

In my experience, charging lights illuminate when no charging exists, and extinguish when adequate voltage is being produced, a volt gauge should quickly diagnose or rule out any problem there. So if your charging system is working properly, the light should extinguish opon revving the engine.
That should at least solve that portion of your troubles.

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Etc.

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propwash
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Re: Oil Leaks, Dodgy Charge Lights, And Lost Posts, Oh My

Post by propwash » Fri Feb 15, 2019 1:20 pm

Korto wrote:
Fri Feb 15, 2019 10:02 am
NOOOOO!!!! This bloody thing ate my post! :shock:

I had a long, descriptive (maybe a little rambling) post, and it's gone. :cry: Took me like farking hours...

OK, I'll re-write it, but massively abbreviated.

Long story short--On a ride, had distributor trouble, ended up riding home 20kph on one cylinder, and she was bitching all the way. Distributor now fixed. However, since then issues have arisen, and I don't know if it's related to the trouble.

1) Charge light acting funny. It no longer goes on when revving. It still goes on when the electrics are switched on but the bike isn't running, so the connections and globe are good. And the last time I was working on her, she had 6.2V in the battery when I started her, and 6.3V when I switched her off, so she's charging. But the light isn't coming on.

2) Oil leaks. After a while of fast idling, it starts a slow drip out of both cylinders, and a fast unbroken trickle out of the front and back of the generator. Someone suggested it may be a blocked crankcase vent.

3) Difficult to start, needing often a dozen kicks. This is probably because I adjusted the carbs to get it going again when I had the distributor trouble. An oddity is that the choke now affects the bike again. It didn't before, hot or cold the choke had no effect. Now it does. :?

4) I hate engineers. More info on that when it isn't 1 in the frigging morning.
2) Where on the cylinder? Sometimes these will leak some oil between the head/cylinder if the torque is light or the head gasket is compromised or missing. Yes, missing; seen that before.

3) Doubt it is your carbs unless they are really improperly adjusted. The 6V distributors are basic and rugged. I would get it working properly before messing with anything else. Does it want to kick back if you attempt to start without the manual retard engaged?
The nannies, noobs and marketers have ruined this place.

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Re: Oil Leaks, Dodgy Charge Lights, And Lost Posts, Oh My

Post by Korto » Sat Feb 16, 2019 8:59 am

Is there any easy way to check if the crankcase vent is blocked. I'm assuming it's that tube coming off next to the generator. I tried blowing and sucking through it (not while the bike was running, obviously), and there was reasonable resistance, but I could do it, but I don't know it that's a worthwhile test or not. While the bike's running, would there be any air movement for me to feel for?
Another possibility I had mentioned was a broken interior oilway.
jaybird wrote:
Fri Feb 15, 2019 1:08 pm
In my experience, charging lights illuminate when no charging exists, and extinguish when adequate voltage is being produced, a volt gauge should quickly diagnose or rule out any problem there. So if your charging system is working properly, the light should extinguish opon revving the engine.
That should at least solve that portion of your troubles
Let's think this through, looking at the circuit diagram (and assuming it's wired up like that)... Power comes from the battery positive, through the bulb, and then to the output (positive) of the generator and to the regulator, which acts as a router...
If the generator not making enough power, it's routed to the windings, which then goes to earth. So a complete circuit, the bulb should light.
If the generator is making enough power, it's routed back to the battery positive. So, positive to positive; although I'm not sure what the backflow from the generator through the bulb will do, it's not a standard complete circuit. I think you're right, Jaybird.
So why the hell was it lighting up when revving before? :?
propwash wrote:2) Where on the cylinder? Sometimes these will leak some oil between the head/cylinder if the torque is light or the head gasket is compromised or missing. Yes, missing; seen that before.

3) Doubt it is your carbs unless they are really improperly adjusted. The 6V distributors are basic and rugged. I would get it working properly before messing with anything else. Does it want to kick back if you attempt to start without the manual retard engaged?
2) Between the head and cylinder, where copper gaskets should be. I suspect there's a good chance they're missing. It's hard to see, but I've got some new gaskets on order anyway, so when they come in, I'll do a proper job on them.

3) It'll have the occasional kick back. In fact my little toe's just recovered from being crushed between the kickstart and the sidecar four weeks ago (that was...painful...). It doesn't kick back that often, maybe one in every ten kicks? I've never kept track.
It's never liked having the manual retard engaged. Hot or cold, runs better with it off. I've never started it with it engaged.


I Hate Engineers
Because in Australia, the sidecar has to be on the left, sidecar mounts had to be put on the left, which meant what counted as a "Significant Vehicle Modification". This meant the entire vehicle had to be brought up to modern Australian Design Requirements (ADRs), and an engineer had to be consulted to determine what had to be done and sign off on it.
So he sees the bike, and gives me a list of requirements. Fair enough, that's his job. So I go and follow his list, and bring it back again. It takes a month or more to get an appointment with him.
He checks off, agrees that I've done what he asked, and then he gives me another list! Shorter, this time, but on it are things like "Needs a larger mirror" and "Replace old headlight with new with correct lens"
You couldn't have put this on your first list? It would have been done by now.
So, OK, OK, I go away and do it, and then bring it back. Another month or more to get an appointment. He checks it off, good, and then he tells me he wants the seat put back 40mm and the rear brake attachment raised 8mm! Of all the petty $#!+ jobs, move the seat back 40 bloody millimetres. Bullshit.


One bright point about it, I've modified the rear brake to make it easier to adjust now. As the bike was, one of the rear brake levers was in a mechanically weak position as apparently standard, and couldn't be put into a better position as it would hit the frame. With the engineer requiring the attachment point moved up 8mm, I was then able to grind the lever a little shorter, so it could clear the frame, and I replaced the pull-rod with two short pieces of threaded rod (35mm each), and some threaded sleeve (50mm). Now, I can adjust the length of the rod by screwing them in and out of the sleeve, and therefore adjust the brakes.

Image

Image

Those two nuts you can see are nylocks, to tighten against the sleeve and prevent it turning without permission. You can also see I ground out a hollow in the lever to allow for the extra angle on the rod.
I also had to shorten the spring by about a quarter turn.
Australia, Newcastle. 1972 Dnepr MT-9... mostly... I think...

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