Trans and Rear oil Choices

Start oil threads here so they can be ignored and/or ridiculed by most of us (except for those hardcore few that live for that kinda stuff).
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Here's the place for you to debate what oil is best. Post your oil related topics her so we don't clutter up the other sections. Most people avoid oil threads like the plague.
RC20
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Re: Trans and Rear oil Choices

Post by RC20 » Wed Jun 20, 2018 7:35 pm

Let me tell you a story of regular oil.

-40 below, Bronco sat for a week or so, got laid off, started ok, would not move. Had to put it in low range and rock it, finally broke her free.

I knew it was low on oil but once started wanted to keep moving so ran out of town and got her all warmed up.

Got out my spare can of oil, opened it up. 10 minutes latter you could see a gollup starting to form, figured it would only take 2 hours for it to go into the engine. Now it was a lot warmer up on Chena ridge where I was but .....

So, I figured, lets put the oil under the heater, run 20 miles or so and try again.

Dang, flowed like, well oil.

Synthetic oil does flow easier in cold temps and it starts to show at 40 degrees. Worst wear on the engine is the start. Any oil that flows easier is vastly better than one that does not. Cycle batteries are marginal to start (pun) with. All good and you can run it longer. 10k in our Diesel VW.
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chaos2
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Re: Trans and Rear oil Choices

Post by chaos2 » Wed Jun 20, 2018 7:42 pm

that has been my experience, even with the same weight oils synthetic flows easier at low temps. I figured that out back in my limey car days, maybe things have changed.
past afflictions include limey motocars and bikes, R60/2, R65ls, and a Citroen.
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Re: Trans and Rear oil Choices

Post by Urtigeral » Sun Jul 01, 2018 6:55 pm

I went from Mobil 1 20-50 full synthetic in the gearbox to Redline Lightweight shockproof (bought the wrong one) to redline heavyweight shockproof.

The lightweight shockproof didn’t feel any different to me than the Mobil 1. The Heavyweight shockproof does—it’s still a Ural gearbox but it does feel like there’s a slight cushion when shifting now. I like it.

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Re: Trans and Rear oil Choices

Post by hotflash44 » Sun Jul 01, 2018 8:04 pm

Urtigeral wrote:I went from Mobil 1 20-50 full synthetic in the gearbox to Redline Lightweight shockproof (bought the wrong one) to redline heavyweight shockproof.

The lightweight shockproof didn’t feel any different to me than the Mobil 1. The Heavyweight shockproof does—it’s still a Ural gearbox but it does feel like there’s a slight cushion when shifting now. I like it.
i agree, i use redline 20w60 in engine and hd shock proof in the other two,all good so far. :cheers:
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hillbillybob
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Re: Trans and Rear oil Choices

Post by hillbillybob » Fri Sep 07, 2018 6:02 am

Purchased my 06 three years ago, with only 40 kilometers on it. Since that time, it has had nothing but a conventional 80w/90 gear oil in the tranny. Odometer now reads just over 9,200 km, and 95% of the time, I can shift from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, and 3rd to 4th, with no grinding, clashing, clunking, clicking, or any other sort of noise. The other 5%.... my timing is off a bit. As the kilometers add up, my high quality Russian gears are wearing in nicely. Will continue using the Valvoline gear lube.

Down shifting is a different story, but I'll continue to work on it.
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Re: Trans and Rear oil Choices

Post by Urtigeral » Wed Jan 16, 2019 4:35 am

I changed the tranny and final drive fluids yesterday and after running the Redline heavy shockproof, there was a very minimal amount of swarf on the magnets. Pretty pleased with that...also i had read it could be difficult to remove the heavy shockproof so I took it on a 20 min highway ride before changing and the fluids poured right out, no need for concern there.

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BinDerSmokDat
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Re: Trans and Rear oil Choices

Post by BinDerSmokDat » Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:35 am

For every guy using specialty oil and additives there are guys running regular dino 20W-50 or 20W-40 in winter and clocking hundreds of thousands of clicks with no issues.

As for using Gear oil versus engine oil in the tranny...

NOTE: Gear oil and Engine oil use different viscosity scales! So while the numbering nomenclature is the same "##W-##", the viscosities for those numbers are different. So 80W-90 Gear and 20-W50 actually span a similar viscosity range.

The orange lines below are mine to demonstrate range overlap.
Backup_200107_viscosity_table_2.gif
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RC20
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Re: Trans and Rear oil Choices

Post by RC20 » Tue Aug 06, 2019 7:25 pm

Having pondered all this an having my cT in hand, I am going to go with the Mobil 46 10W - 40 for the engine, still pondering the Trany and FD.

Partly Mobil is readily available without having to order and shipping to AK cost a lot.

As current oil allowed is standard 5W-40 to 45 roughly, and 20-50 above that, the 10W will span the range and as its a synthetic suffer no issues in covering the up to 80 AK sees. I can start and run at under 10 easily. And start it at least if not run it.

To be stronlky considered is the newer Urals (2014?) have new tranny , final drive and engine mods. Tighter tolerances. What was ok for the older iron is not necessarily the same for newer.

I will continue to say that BinDerSmokDat is wrong on Synthetic . They do perform better in all conditions than conventional oils. Oils like Delo 400 and the Equal in in Shell and Mobil etc are superior conventional oils without any question.

For hot weather that may or may not be an aspect to consider. If I was running 90+ on a regular basis with a Ural, the extra high temp capability above high quality oils like Delo might be enough of an edge to help, but I would not have an issue with Delo (and cost is kind of who cares, its 3 quarts for gods sakes). If you ARE NOT running a diesel rated near high temp synthetic capable oil like Delo 400? No thank you. Will regular oils work, obviously, but there is possible downsides and there is NO downside to either a Delo 400 or a Synthetic Oil .

On the other hand, low temps? I have seen a lot of sub zero hits the last few years all across the US Norther tier and its extended down into several tiers below that. In that case a Delo 400 at 15W is NOT going to spin as well as a synthetic.

Its a case of maximizing your oil ability to not be an issue. You can do that with the Delo 400 type on high temp but helps not a bit on low end.

Or you can go with a wide spectrum Synthetics that covers the range. Gerogia? No issue with a Delo 400 type. One day a winter under 32?

And the cost difference in a 3 quart engine is what ? $20 at most. Not the cost per quart but the cost of a good oil subtracted form a synthetic oil.

At some point I will figure out what I want to do on the Tranny and FD.
Fear No Gravel
Formerly Owned: ( various rides on others)
Honda 90
2 x CB750K (one a true Japan Model flown to Hawaii by a P3 Orion Sub Patrol Aircraft!)
1 x CB700 SC (RC20 is the actual in house production Model)
1 x R80GS (ok to start with, learned to love it for what it was)
1 x CB450K
1 x 2019 cT Terracotta

Mechanic/Technician/Engineer: Electro Mechanical Systems

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