Penetrating Oils - Tests for effectiveness.

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Snakeoil
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Penetrating Oils - Tests for effectiveness.

Post by Snakeoil » Sun Nov 06, 2016 5:50 pm

Got this in an email today from the Virtual Indian List.

Happy knuckle busting !

Machinist's Workshop Magazine (March/April or May/June, 2007) actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oil .......... Average load*

None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench .......... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .............. 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix.........53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
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Re: Penetrating Oils - Tests for effectiveness.

Post by eastbloc » Sun Nov 06, 2016 7:24 pm

Very cool. Thanks for sharing.

I recently had to remove a nut from a scooter hub and no amount of heat or torque would get it off, even when soaked for days with PB Blaster. I finally had to resort to this.
IMG_0252.jpg
IMG_0253.jpg
Where there's a will there's a way :) next time I'll try the acetone-ATF.
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Re: Penetrating Oils - Tests for effectiveness.

Post by Buckhorn » Sun Nov 06, 2016 7:32 pm

Kroil -- The oil that creeps!
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Re: Penetrating Oils - Tests for effectiveness.

Post by Lmo » Sun Nov 06, 2016 8:25 pm

Kroil -- The oil that creeps!

Kroil's good stuff, but there's gotta be a joke in there somewhere...
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Re: Penetrating Oils - Tests for effectiveness.

Post by DRC458 » Sun Nov 06, 2016 9:37 pm

Lmo wrote:
Kroil -- The oil that creeps!

Kroil's good stuff, but there's gotta be a joke in there somewhere...

Kroil kreeps in your krack.
Don

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Lee Pape
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Re: Penetrating Oils - Tests for effectiveness.

Post by Lee Pape » Mon Nov 07, 2016 10:34 am

Love the smell of Kroil.
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Re: Penetrating Oils - Tests for effectiveness.

Post by GHGoodwin » Mon Nov 07, 2016 5:53 pm

Crushed Krill Kroil seeps in your crack
Your nuts bust loose without a whack
Use SiliKriol to make them slide
Then well lubed nuts will be your pride
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Re: Penetrating Oils - Tests for effectiveness.

Post by Buckhorn » Mon Nov 07, 2016 7:04 pm

Lee Pape wrote:Love the smell of Kroil.
Smells like Victory !
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Re: Penetrating Oils - Tests for effectiveness.

Post by dneprlover » Tue Nov 08, 2016 6:44 am

Diesel oil and vegetable oil mixed 3-1 is a good one to try.
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Re: Penetrating Oils - Tests for effectiveness.

Post by maccaoz » Tue Nov 08, 2016 4:36 pm

I have been using the ATF - Acertone for the last few years,
It's amazing stuff.

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Re: Penetrating Oils - Tests for effectiveness.

Post by 06motorradman » Tue Nov 08, 2016 4:49 pm

Does the acetone evaporate off quickly?
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Re: Penetrating Oils - Tests for effectiveness.

Post by brianural » Tue Nov 08, 2016 6:51 pm

I actually used candle w@* today. Saw a vid on it a few weeks, heat it up and melt w@* into threads. I was skeptical, but thought what do I got to lose. Seemed to work. I was pulling apart one of my wheel bearings, it wasn't budging..Little heat and w@* and it broke free pretty easily.
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Re: Penetrating Oils - Tests for effectiveness.

Post by Yakatak » Wed Nov 09, 2016 1:20 pm

"Does the acetone evaporate off quickly?" Yes, but not as fast as acetone by itself. The acetone thins the ATF, enabling it to penetrate the joint better. Works better than anything..., although I haven't tried that w a x ju ju yet.
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Re: Penetrating Oils - Tests for effectiveness.

Post by Bilgekeeldave » Wed Nov 09, 2016 2:23 pm

The w-a-x trick work real well. I've always use beeswax because that what they always ordered on all the ships I've worked on for just this purpose.
On Steam flanges, the beeswax is applied to the nut while the line is still hot. On cold equipment, heat the nut and bolt up with a torch and apply the beeswax, it will wick right into the space between the nut and bolt
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Re: Penetrating Oils - Tests for effectiveness.

Post by DaveO » Thu Nov 10, 2016 10:36 am

What a pleasant surprise!!

I have been making and using a bore cleaner called 'Ed's Red' for years now...i mix it by the gallon and it's very cost-effective, compared to commercially sold bore cleaners, especially if you have large and ongoing cleaning needs....anyhow,the ingredients for 'Ed's Red' are very similar to this home-brewed penetrating oil....I've been very happy with the results of 'Ed's Red' as a bore-cleaner, and am even happier to have found another much-needed use for it!

Here's the contents,recipe, and instructions for mixing and using 'Ed's Red'......

http://handloads.com/articles/default.asp?id=9

CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

1 part Dexron II, IIe or III ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.

1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1

1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, Fed. Spec. TT-T-2981F, CAS
#64741-49-9, or may substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or
equivalent, (aka "Varsol")

1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.

(Optional up to 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, OK to
substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)

MIXING INSTRUCTIONS FOR "ER" BORE CLEANER:

Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal,
chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA
approved plastic gasoline storage containers are also OK. Do NOT use
HDPE, which is permeable, because the acetone will eventually evaporate.
The acetone in ER will also attack HDPE, causing the container to
collapse, making a heck of a mess!

Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the other
components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the
lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking
precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger
container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and
stirring until it is all dissolved.

I recommend diverting a small quantity, up to 4 ozs. per quart of the
50-50 ATF/kerosene mix for optional use as an "ER-compatible" gun oil.
This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the remaining
mix.


LABEL AND NECESSARY SAFETY WARNINGS:

RIFLE BORE CLEANER CAUTION: FLAMMABLE MIXTURE
HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN

1. Flammable mixture. Keep away from heat, sparks or flame.

2. FIRST AID, If swallowed DO NOT induce vomiting, call physician
immediately. In case of eye contact immediately flush thoroughly with
water and call a physician. For skin contact w@$# thoroughly.

3. Use with adequate ventilation. Avoid breathing vapors or spray mist.
It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner
inconsistent with its labelling. Reports have associated repeated and
prolonged occupational overexposure to solvents with permanent brain and
nervous system damage. If using in closed armory vaults lacking forced
air ventilation wear respiratory protection meeting NIOSH TC23C or
equivalent. Keep container tightly closed when not in use.


INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING "Ed's Red (ER)" Bore Cleaner:

1. Open the firearm action and ensure the bore is clear. Cleaning is
most effective when done while the barrel is still warm to the touch
from firing. Saturate a cotton patch with bore cleaner, wrap or impale
on jag and push it through the bore from breech to muzzle. The patch
should be a snug fit. Let the first patch fall off and do not pull it
back into the bore.

2. Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore from the
breech, this time scrubbing from the throat area forward in 4-5" strokes
and gradually advancing until the patch emerges out the muzzle. Waiting
approximately 1 minute to let the bore cleaner soak will improve its
action.

3. For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled "rattle battle" guns, leaded
revolvers or neglected bores a bronze brush wet with bore cleaner may be
used to remove stubborn deposits. This is unnecessary for smooth,
target-grade barrels in routine use.

4. Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to flush out
loosened residue dissolved by Ed's Red. Let the patch fall off the jag
without pulling it back into the bore. If you are finished firing,
leaving the bore wet will protect it from rust for 1 year under average
conditions.

5. If the lanolin is incorporated into the mixture, it will protect the
firearm from rust for up to two years. For longer term storage I
recommend use of Lee Liquid Alox as a Cosmolene substitute. "ER" will
readily remove hardened Alox or Cosmolene.

6. Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing the gun.
While Ed's Red is harmless to blue and nickel finishes, the acetone it
contains is harmful to most wood finishes).

7. Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore and dry
the chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably sized brush or jag.
First shot point of impact usually will not be disturbed by Ed's Red if
the bore is cleaned as described.

8. I have determined to my satisfaction that when Ed's Red is used
exclusively and thoroughly, that hot water cleaning is unnecessary after
use of Pyrodex or military chlorate primers. However, if bores are not
wiped between shots and shots and are heavily caked from black powder
fouling, hot water cleaning is recommended first to break up heavy
fouling deposits. Water cleaning should be followed by a thorough flush
with Ed's Red to prevent after-rusting which could result from residual
moisture. It is ALWAYS good practice to clean TWICE, TWO DAYS APART
whenever using chlorate primed ammunition, just to make sure you get all
the corrosive residue out.

This "Recipe" is placed in the public domain, and may be freely
distributed provided that it is done so in its entirely with all current
revisions, instructions and safety warnings included herein, and that
proper attribution is given to the author.

In Home Mix We Trust, Regards, Ed
'00 CMSI Patrol

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