Clutch Plate Screws

DickHandy · Post by **DickHandy** » Sat Dec 07, 2019 3:23 pm

Is there some secret to getting these out short of drilling them?

rivers · Post by **rivers** » Sat Dec 07, 2019 3:27 pm

Hand held hammer blow impact wrench.

DickHandy · Post by **DickHandy** » Sat Dec 07, 2019 3:34 pm

Agreed, broke two bits so far, out of bits. Made a bit out of a USA made chisel with a carbide endmill, fit perfect. Broke that. Broke a screwdriver by putting a wrench on that..

wooden nickel · Post by **wooden nickel** » Sat Dec 07, 2019 4:52 pm

Did you heat them with a propane torch yet? My 16 had Lock Tite on the screws.

Albuquralque · Post by **Albuquralque** » Sat Dec 07, 2019 5:11 pm

yep heat

rivers · Post by **rivers** » Sat Dec 07, 2019 5:37 pm

Heat may be needed.Worth a try. Ural used to just stake the heads and heat isn't needed. Don't know about an 011 but If blue loctited, heat also won't be needed. If "red" loctited heat is mandatory to break the chemical bond.

Post by **WEGUNTER** » Sat Dec 07, 2019 5:59 pm

heat the plate and then hit the screw with ice. Van uses a popcicle. Then hit with an impact screw driver.

chaos2 · Post by **chaos2** » Sat Dec 07, 2019 6:12 pm

what's with these holes?

Mr Wazzock · Post by **Mr Wazzock** » Sat Dec 07, 2019 6:14 pm

Ah I was going to say "I may be wrong but "

So I'm not wrong the edge of the screw may be centre-punched somewhere on its circumference to stop it coming loose. So that needs "releasing" first. Dremel?

chaos2 · Post by **chaos2** » Sat Dec 07, 2019 7:09 pm

I figured it's some method of locking the screw, new one on me.

khd2 · Post by **khd2** » Sat Dec 07, 2019 7:12 pm

Not sure if there is a better way, but here is how I do it -- with a punch you should release those punch holes back first so they don't squeeze the head of the screw anymore. Then use the punch on the outermost side of the edge to try to turn the screw with hammer blows. It will mess up the edges of the screw but once it gets loose it is easier. It helps to put something in between to prevent the flywheel from turning.

When putting them back on I use loctite, and use punch to make the last turn of the screw, and try to put similar mechanical punch marks to prevent it from getting loose (it is not possible to put that big punch marks by hand, but slightest mark helps).

Lokiboy · Post by **Lokiboy** » Sat Dec 07, 2019 7:54 pm

If you can’t get them out you can cut the plate. Costs about $30 for a new plate - saves so much time and effort.

Gene at Howlpaw sells hex bolts to replace the slotted. Need to make sure he knows the year - Ural changed pitch thread around 2014.

RC20 · Post by **RC20** » Sat Dec 07, 2019 8:10 pm

what's with these holes?

Called staking. Probably no lock tite on the threats then. Has to be relived or will not move.

Kroil soak may work as well.

URALNUT60 · Post by **URALNUT60** » Sat Dec 07, 2019 8:16 pm

Throw those screws away when removed, call Gene or Terry get the Allen panhead screws for easier removal, hammer impact does do a nice job removing these

DickHandy · Post by **DickHandy** » Sat Dec 07, 2019 9:12 pm

Had to walk away today. Tomorrow’s a new day. Yes they are staked. I used a punch to “push back” the interference from the transferred metal on the two I have tried with no luck. See what I can get done tomorrow. I was almost wondering if they were left hand or something. I see there not after some reading. Thanks for everyone’s help and I will keep you posted

Soviet Steeds

Clutch Plate Screws

Clutch Plate Screws

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