Brake lights screwy

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shoalsgary
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Brake lights screwy

Post by shoalsgary » Tue Jul 30, 2019 11:05 pm

First, I have no clue how URAL uses a single filament bulb for both brake and running light. Second, my foot brake switch seems to have no effect on my brakes lights, nor does touching the wires together when it's disconnected have any effect.
Thirdly, when I apply the brakes with the front brake lever, the lights go completely out, and when I release them, the lights are full brightness.
Aside from completely rewiring the 06 URAL in a conventional manner, is there any realistic way to get this screwy system to work? Somehow, my 05 worked right, wired the same way. A complete mystery to me
Riding since 1956. Started with a 50 Whizzer, Had everything including two previous URALs, substituted a 2006 Bavarian Classic for my 2017 Indian Chief Vintage that I and my wife no longer can ride.

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VWK75S
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Re: Brake lights screwy

Post by VWK75S » Wed Jul 31, 2019 4:55 am

shoalsgary wrote:
Tue Jul 30, 2019 11:05 pm
First, I have no clue how URAL uses a single filament bulb for both brake and running light.
It dosen't :?
I'd take that bulb out and see if the problem goes away (back feed).
John
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Re: Brake lights screwy

Post by Mr Wazzock » Wed Jul 31, 2019 4:29 pm

This the second time I've read about this! :D Single filament 21W bulb? Should be dual 5W/21W with two separate end terminals.
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hillbillybob
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Re: Brake lights screwy

Post by hillbillybob » Thu Aug 01, 2019 5:09 pm

Have you by any chance put LED bulbs in that light housing? For some reason the light on the bike's rear fender is wired backward....don't ask me why, but positive and negative are reversed, causing the current to flow through the bulb socket in the wrong direction. Some LED's won't put up with this....(flow direction sensitive).

I tore my 06's tail light housing apart last winter...removed it's guts, and installed a properly wired, single socket bulb holder, designed for a dual filament 1157 type bulb. Had to do a bit of modification to the new socket in order to retain the original reflector, and now the current flows in the right direction. Installed the single LED bulb, and all is well....tail light, stop light, one bulb, one socket.
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Re: Brake lights screwy

Post by shoalsgary » Sun Aug 04, 2019 10:56 pm

Solved the problem by replacing taillights with boat trailer LED taillight assemblies.
Riding since 1956. Started with a 50 Whizzer, Had everything including two previous URALs, substituted a 2006 Bavarian Classic for my 2017 Indian Chief Vintage that I and my wife no longer can ride.

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Re: Brake lights screwy

Post by Mr Wazzock » Mon Aug 05, 2019 3:34 pm

Did you have other LED lamps in before then?
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Re: Brake lights screwy

Post by RC20 » Mon Aug 05, 2019 8:24 pm

Unlike a DC lamp, LEDs are directional (see the diode part) .

Hooked up wrong they won't pass current.
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Re: Brake lights screwy

Post by shoalsgary » Tue Aug 06, 2019 10:05 pm

Nope; I had standard lamps. Nevertheless, switching to boat trailer lights not only solved the problem but made them a whole lot more visible, both in running and braking functions!
Riding since 1956. Started with a 50 Whizzer, Had everything including two previous URALs, substituted a 2006 Bavarian Classic for my 2017 Indian Chief Vintage that I and my wife no longer can ride.

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Re: Brake lights screwy

Post by Snakeoil » Thu Aug 08, 2019 12:29 pm

I think the OP's problem was probably caused by someone who had an older Ural, replacing the stoplight bulb with a single filament 21W bulb thinking all model years were the same.

My 2000 has two bulbs in the taillight. Bottom bulb is a single filament 5W bulb which is the taillight. Top bulb is a single filament 21W bulb, which is the stop light. And yes, the circuit is backwards with +12V being fed thru the outer socket housing and the ground thru the center terminal of the bulb. Bulb doesn't care. Ivan strikes again.

There is another potential problem with the older design that I discovered today. The +12V feed to the stop light bulb is connected to the socket via a tiny rivet that also holds the socket in place in the plastic taillight housing. Tension from the center contact and road vibes can cause the rivet to chew into the plastic and the housing to wire terminal connection becomes loose. My fix was to made a tiny punch that could get between the reflector and the socket and tighten up that connection with a couple of taps with a small hammer. If this happens again, my fix will be to drill out the rivets, solder the terminal to the socket and then reinstall using small machine screws and nuts.

I found this problem when I noticed I did not have stoplight on the tug, but hack stoplight worked. So, if you have this older style, you might want to check because it might work while you are in your garage, but it might not out on the road.
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Rob
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