Transmission not disengaging

Are ya having a problem with your rig? We'll try to help. Share your tech tips and experiences here. Dr. Billy Glaser, author of the "Unofficial 750 Ural Service Manual" site myural.com, is moderating this section.
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Here is the place for you to ask questions about or share your experiences about servicing or repairing your Ural or Dnepr. Please post topics concering modifications or accesories in the "Modifications and Acessories" section. Please post oil related questions in the "Oil Threads" section.
WEGUNTER
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Re: Transmission not disengaging

Post by WEGUNTER » Thu May 30, 2019 2:17 pm

I had the rivets pop on a brand new set of disks. Did it during the installation process.

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VWK75S
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Re: Transmission not disengaging

Post by VWK75S » Fri May 31, 2019 6:14 am

Tomcatfixer wrote:
Thu May 30, 2019 5:41 am
Not THAT end, John. You cut the slot in the ROUND end that nestles into the throwout bearing. The square end engages into the clutch's thrust plate...
-
Sorry, I should have explained myself. I'm not sure why the square end isn't round?
Push rod.JPG
Wanderrad wrote:
Thu May 30, 2019 8:02 am
There was also a batch of bad clutch arms. Can’t remember the affected years, but I believe they were later than yours.
Mine wasn't bad it just couldn't handle the new stronger springs. Before the new arms came out I put a stiffener on mine and relocated the cable mount to the inside of the speedo cable,
John
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Re: Transmission not disengaging

Post by WEGUNTER » Fri May 31, 2019 8:10 am

Another trick to add some strength to the clutch cable arm is to take a couple of zip ties and a small spring. Hook one end of the spring to the clutch arm and the other end to your frame. I ran that for a couple of years and it did fine.

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Re: Transmission not disengaging

Post by WEGUNTER » Fri May 31, 2019 8:19 am

How many km's are on your current clutch pack? Based on what everyone else is saying, I think I would play around with the clutch arm before I pulled the tranny and dived into the plates.

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Waffl6
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Re: Transmission not disengaging

Post by Waffl6 » Mon Jun 03, 2019 10:03 pm

WEGUNTER wrote:
Fri May 31, 2019 8:19 am
How many km's are on your current clutch pack? Based on what everyone else is saying, I think I would play around with the clutch arm before I pulled the tranny and dived into the plates.
Assuming this is the original, 58xx km's.

At the BGR rally this past weekend, I discussed the issue at length with several people and everyone thinks I need to do a clutch job.

How much is it supposed to cost? I saw a kit from UralNE for $512, nobody mentioned to me that it was going to be that expensive. That's quite a bit.
Probably the youngest guy in the room.

Current bikes: 1987 Rebel 250, 1990 Ninja 500, 2009 Honda Shadow 750, 2011 Ural Patrol T - A real POS

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Lokiboy
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Re: Transmission not disengaging

Post by Lokiboy » Mon Jun 03, 2019 10:20 pm

You need part #1 (x2). #4, only if you have to cut the old one. And new hex screws. Not cheap, but not $500+ either
A6413697-A794-46F3-82E7-7A31AB00A90E.png
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Re: Transmission not disengaging

Post by Lokiboy » Mon Jun 03, 2019 10:24 pm

Since your rig is now parked where you can take a bit more time to work on it, I highly recommend looking over the numerous videos, and search SS for detailed clutch threads and disassemble yourself. With the low mileage on your rig you might only need to clean the clutch plates and reassemble.
2011 Gear Up - "Erika"
Yorktown, VA

Mains: 127, Idle: 40, Needle: 1 shim
MKIII air filter
90,000 km and counting

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Re: Transmission not disengaging

Post by WEGUNTER » Tue Jun 04, 2019 7:30 am

You might get better prices from Holopaw Gene or Heindl. Are you saying there is 58,000 km on the rig? If that is the original clutch pack then yes it is probably due for a change.

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Re: Transmission not disengaging

Post by Tomcatfixer » Tue Jun 04, 2019 7:37 am

No, Bill, 5,800 km.
- Chad

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Current rides:
2015 Ural cT "Mobile Chernobyl", 2001 Ural Patrol "The Patrol", 1999 Ural Tourist "The RPOC", 1994 Honda VFR750F

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2007 Honda VTR1000 FireStorm (Super Hawk in U.S.)
2001 Buell Blast! - - - - - - - 2005 Yamaha FJR1300
1993 Honda CBR600F2 - -1984 Yamaha FJ1100
Two different 1986 Yamaha FZX700S Fazers

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Re: Transmission not disengaging

Post by jaybird » Tue Jun 04, 2019 9:34 am

Best way to find out what you need is to pull the transmission/clutch. If you're on the ball you can have the trans on the ground in a half hour, one hour if you have to look for tools/think about it. The clutch pack can take a little longer depending on the type of screws used to hold it together and your tools/resourcefulness. If you need to keep the rig mobile you can bolt the final drive back in and put the wheel back on without hooking up all the connections or; viewtopic.php?f=5&t=48103&hilit=wooden+final+drive
The rig is disabled now, you might as well pull it apart and see where you stand.

We can see you don't need a push rod/throw out bearing, pull the clutch, find out what other parts you need and call around to see who has what you need at a price you want to pay.

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Re: Transmission not disengaging

Post by WEGUNTER » Tue Jun 04, 2019 10:26 am

ummmmmmmmmmm my mistake. Can't believe the clutch pack blew out in less than 6k. think I would focus on the clutch arm and cable adjustment before I pulled the tranny. would hate to pull everything apart and find out it was something simple

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Re: Transmission not disengaging

Post by jaybird » Tue Jun 04, 2019 10:58 am

WEGUNTER wrote:
Tue Jun 04, 2019 10:26 am
ummmmmmmmmmm my mistake. Can't believe the clutch pack blew out in less than 6k. think I would focus on the clutch arm and cable adjustment before I pulled the tranny. would hate to pull everything apart and find out it was something simple
I agree, and it was discussed.
Nothing like rebuilding your engine when all you needed was a tank of gas :lol:


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Jaybird
2005 Gear-Up, Mr. Nat_ural 108,000+ Kilometers and counting
2013 Retro, Black beauty, AKA Lucky "13"
1995 Olive Tourist
1975 Enfield Diesel Bullet
2008 Enfield Bullet 500
1974 BMW R 75/6
Etc.

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Re: Transmission not disengaging

Post by Waffl6 » Tue Jul 02, 2019 4:30 pm

An update:

So I have rented a storage unit down the street where I am doing the work to the bike.

It is torn down to the point where I am trying to remove the flathead screws on the clutch plate, and I am not doing well at all with it. I soaked them overnight in two penetrating oils: PB blaster + Seafoam deep creep. Still didn't work. Bought a hand impact screwdriver but unfortunately I can not get the clearance I need to strike the hammer. I have tried using my giant flathead screwdriver and a hammer to turn them and I also tried a tool similar to Billy G's website, which also did not work. The heads are a little damaged on some of them at this point.

I am debating on whether or not it's a good idea to pull the whole engine out and take it to get nuts welded on to remove these, or whether I should call out a mobile welder. There is also the option to buy a set of left-hand drill bits online and have them overnighted. I am not sure if this will work, given that these are apparently loctited as well as being made of cheese just like my paint.

Thoughts, ideas?
Probably the youngest guy in the room.

Current bikes: 1987 Rebel 250, 1990 Ninja 500, 2009 Honda Shadow 750, 2011 Ural Patrol T - A real POS

Past bikes: 1994 Katana 600

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rivers
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Re: Transmission not disengaging

Post by rivers » Tue Jul 02, 2019 4:48 pm

If the screws have been locked with RED loctite, you'll need heat to break the bond. Put a torch to the screw heads.
Joe
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Lokiboy
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Re: Transmission not disengaging

Post by Lokiboy » Tue Jul 02, 2019 4:56 pm

Waffl6, as we chatted about. Cut the the face plate with a Dremel cutting wheel. The plate only costs around $15. Then you can grab the screws with a vice grip. Engine can stay put. Order new hex screws
Last edited by Lokiboy on Tue Jul 02, 2019 5:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
2011 Gear Up - "Erika"
Yorktown, VA

Mains: 127, Idle: 40, Needle: 1 shim
MKIII air filter
90,000 km and counting

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