Spin on oil filter

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Henry
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Spin on oil filter

Post by Henry » Wed Jun 07, 2017 8:30 am

I am thinking of installing a spin on oil filter kit on my 2013 Retro and after reading a couple of the horror stories of removing the stock cover wonder if it is worth the effort. Any comments/thoughts would be helpful.
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Buckhorn
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Re: Spin on oil filter

Post by Buckhorn » Wed Jun 07, 2017 9:20 am

Then it won't look Retro anymore.
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Re: Spin on oil filter

Post by Snakeoil » Wed Jun 07, 2017 9:24 am

I truly struggle with the advantage of the spin on filter conversion. I know the guys that have them love them. But I find that removing the plug and pulling the internal filter to be both easy and not messy. Yes, filters are a bit of a PITA to acquire. But that is easily solved by simply buying a quantity of them and putting them on the shelf.

Each to his own. But when I do a cost/benefit comparison in my head, I come up with zero benefit for me.
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Re: Spin on oil filter

Post by stagewex » Wed Jun 07, 2017 9:51 am

For as often as I change the oil a year (2X maybe) it's not such a big deal of convenience having the spin-on. Squatting to spin off the filter or lying on your side to unbolt the cap. No big deal
Also, if you ride off-road you have additional exposure of the filter itself. Snow/ice too.
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Re: Spin on oil filter

Post by redtails » Wed Jun 07, 2017 12:31 pm

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Re: Spin on oil filter

Post by Tin Man » Wed Jun 07, 2017 12:53 pm

With the stock exhaust....a piece of aluminum foil over the crossover pipe (to keep the draining oil off) was the only thing I had to do extra.....never had an issue with the stock filter. :foilhead:
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Re: Spin on oil filter

Post by BinDerSmokDat » Fri Jun 09, 2017 10:23 am

I never had an issue with the stock filter but when I swapped in a newer engine I decided that I was going to go with the Raceway oil pump and the spin-on filter.

Why?

With the higher pump output I figured at worst case scenario it wouldn't hurt anything and at best case scenario, I'm getting a little better filtration and oil circulation.

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Re: Spin on oil filter

Post by BinDerSmokDat » Fri Jun 09, 2017 10:26 am

As for off-road riding, I do a fair amount. I have never banged my stock oil/ignition cover housing on anything and during my last trip with the spin-on, I had no issues.

I can't see it being a problem, to be honest. It would be very difficult for something to hit it in that location.
I DID manage to ding the filter putting the engine in the frame single-handedly during the swap. :oops:

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Re: Spin on oil filter

Post by brookscooper » Fri Jun 09, 2017 11:38 am

I'm in the middle of getting the stock cover off to install this kit. Mine (2004 750cc motor) was held on with flat head screws. 4 of the 6 were unremovable and so I'm using drills, die grinder and cut off tool to destroy the part to get it off. My motivation was the non-stock exhaust on mine which has a cross-over which blocks the stock filter. I had to remove or loosen 1/2 of the exhaust to get the filter out and since my exhaust headers are the "no bolts" push in type I didn't want to do that regularly for fear of goobering up the fitment of the pipe into the header. I'm now wishing I'd had an exhaust shop make me a tube to replace the cross-over and put a bend in it.

I doubt I'll see a difference in any measurable performance, filter replacement will be easier, but I'm not convinced this is worth it.

Too late for me! Save your self.
Last edited by brookscooper on Fri Jun 09, 2017 7:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
2004 Black / Chrome Tourist
Portland, OR

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Re: Spin on oil filter

Post by brookscooper » Fri Jun 09, 2017 7:16 pm

Ok, folks - an update.

First, my shop assures me the spin-on cover will work with my 2004 engine. I'm closing to finding out. They had BETTER be right.

The stock cover is now off, and un-reusable. If your timing chest cover is held on with slot head screws be very, very careful if you want to make this change. I'll tell you right now that this was clearly a mistake, but by the time I decided that the stock cover was already destroyed. I'll elaborate.

My motivation was to avoid having to remove exhaust parts to get the cross-over out of the way of the stock canister filter. In hindsight, I could have had a cross over with a bend fabricated which would also have solved the problem. But, that's not what I did. Live and learn.

There are 8 slot head screws, all in recessed holes, that hold the timing cover to the engine case. Without removing the engine from the bike (basically a full disassembly) I could not get into a place to use a hammer actuated impact driver.

I tried pressing the pommel of a screwdriver with my hand for traction and turning the screwdriver with pliers. 2 of the screws came out that way. 5 would not budge (driver would cam out of the head) and 1 the slot basically smeared when I tried to turn it. So, at a minimum, i was going to need different methods on that screw.

Before doing irrevocable damage, I tried extensive heating with a torch on each screwhead and the the case where the threaded bore was. I did this in part because my local shop told me that the screws had loctite (or Russian equivalent) used during assembly. BTW, that was not true of this engine. All screw threads came out shiny, pristne and dry.

The heat did not give me success with any of the remaining screws. So, since the new cover was in hand and the kit was complete (no missing parts), I felt free to use destructive means to remove the stock cover.

I used a round nosed burr in my die grinder to grind the heads off the recalcitrant screws and thereby removed the now destroyed cover from the studs which remained.

Studs were easily removed with vice grips.

I'm now working on gettng the Russian paper gasket removed. It's really, really baked on and prone to peeling off in single atom layers.

I'm soaking it with Permatx gasket remover. So far I'm about 6 hours into this project.

I don't care if the new part makes the bike twice as fast and me twice as handsome. This was NOT WORTH IT.
More than one person has opined that the spin-on cover will not work with 2004 Russian gears in the timing chest. Since I have my shop's assurance that it will, I will try the install. If the part won't work, I'll take the bike to the shop and let them choose - install upgraded gears at their expense, or reufnd the spin-on and install a NOS stock cover at their expense. I hope that's not the result.

IF your engine has allen head or other non-medieval fasteners then you won't have that issue, but you will still need to deal with this gasket. I've removed paper gasket residue from a lot of old engines, this is one of the worst.

And, it's made much harder by the very awakward and cramped location you are in.

During the process of removing the stock cover, I had to de-mount the front fender. It;s sitting on the front wheel now. Not a big deal, but yet more disassembly.

Hopefully this will be useful to the collectie.
2004 Black / Chrome Tourist
Portland, OR

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Re: Spin on oil filter

Post by gobium » Fri Jun 09, 2017 8:23 pm

Let me know how the spin on cover fit on Russian timming gears. I had no luck, tried on 3 ural.
May your dealer knows something.
Russian gears are too thick will hit cover.

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Re: Spin on oil filter

Post by myklt8 » Fri Jun 09, 2017 8:52 pm

On my 2013, the cover came off without issue, gasket stayed with the cover

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Re: Spin on oil filter

Post by BriSco » Sat Jun 10, 2017 7:14 pm

I don't see any advantage to the spin on filter. The old style still works well for me and has worked for Ural for years and years.
The canister style still works well on lots of other motorcycles as well....
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Re: Spin on oil filter

Post by gobium » Sat Jun 10, 2017 7:28 pm

BriSco wrote:I don't see any advantage to the spin on filter. The old style still works well for me and has worked for Ural for years and years.
The canister style still works well on lots of other motorcycles as well....
Correct.
I did spin on conversion mainly for oil cooler adapter, desert hot weather riding

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Re: Spin on oil filter

Post by sKiZo » Fri Nov 22, 2019 7:08 am

Old thread I know, but ...

A hand impact driver would have been your friend here. The bits are machine steel and I use my trusty old Craftsman any time a bolt fights me or I think it will. A few sharp taps with a standard hammer is usually all it takes - just be sure to set the direction correctly as they're reversible for tightening bolts and screws as well. A fine addition to any toolkit.

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