High idle

Woe unto you that bought the first model year of a major remake, perhaps this section can help address any 2014 and later model Ural "imperfections". Here's a special section for folks with the latest rigs to discuss 2014 and later model-related topics such fuel injection, 3-wheel disc brakes, hydraulic steering dampers, spin-on oil filters and other anomalies that don't belong on true Russsian motorcycle ;-P We've gone from using big hammers and greasy wrenches to needing computers and Ouija boards in order to fix our rigs.
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Please keep this section specific to issues pertaining to 2014 and later models such as fuel injection, sidecar and rear disc brakes and so forth. Ask general or non-2014 and later specific questions in the main Hammerin' & Wrenchin' section.
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HassoBoxhead
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High idle

Post by HassoBoxhead » Fri Oct 05, 2018 11:15 pm

I’ve been riding my new-to-me 2014 GU for a couple weeks now and am concerned that the idle runs high after it warms up, so much so that when I put it in gear, it clunks hard and you can feel it in your bones. Is there something I can do to address this?

Thanx in advance!
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Re: High idle

Post by hotflash44 » Sat Oct 06, 2018 8:35 am

HassoBoxhead wrote:
Fri Oct 05, 2018 11:15 pm
I’ve been riding my new-to-me 2014 GU for a couple weeks now and am concerned that the idle runs high after it warms up, so much so that when I put it in gear, it clunks hard and you can feel it in your bones. Is there something I can do to address this?

Thanx in advance!
Of course, the EFI throttle butter flys can be adjusted,but unless you have OBDwiz software or something similar it should be taken to a Ural dealer for adjustment. But before you do all that make sure your cables arnt hung up. did it always do this? should idle about 1050 max when warm my 2016 idles at 850 to 950 most of the time and i like it there. good luck :cheers:
2016 gear up asphalt grey, name Seryy Medved ,Air America CIA circa 1967/8 Vung Tau Viet Nam USS Tutuila ARG-4 (AND JUST A TOUCH OF AGENT ORANGE!)

HassoBoxhead
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Re: High idle

Post by HassoBoxhead » Sat Oct 06, 2018 10:03 am

I live a ways from a dealer, but perhaps the folks at Beemers Uber Alles can take a look at it. It’s been pretty warm outside when I’ve ridden of late (above90) so maybe that’s a factor? In any case, she’s popping very animatedly on my rides and I need to get this looked at. Appreciate the help!
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Daisy Cutter
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Re: High idle

Post by Daisy Cutter » Sat Oct 06, 2018 10:06 am

How much free play do you have in the throttle? If you have zero free play, you can adjust it at the handle bars without the obd reader. If you have some free play, when you twist the throttle doe it snap back when released? First thing I'd check is free play then check if something is binding somewhere.

Also, and I could be wrong on this but I wouldn't expect idle to affect shifting from neutral to 1st since the clutch should be engaged and the motor isn't turning anything in the gearbox. You may have a simple case of "They all do that"

Also knowing what your idle rpm is going to be key. You could be chasing your tail without having a number as a reference.
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Re: High idle

Post by Daisy Cutter » Sat Oct 06, 2018 10:08 am

hotflash44 wrote:
Sat Oct 06, 2018 8:35 am
HassoBoxhead wrote:
Fri Oct 05, 2018 11:15 pm
I’ve been riding my new-to-me 2014 GU for a couple weeks now and am concerned that the idle runs high after it warms up, so much so that when I put it in gear, it clunks hard and you can feel it in your bones. Is there something I can do to address this?

Thanx in advance!
Of course, the EFI throttle butter flys can be adjusted,but unless you have OBDwiz software or something similar it should be taken to a Ural dealer for adjustment. But before you do all that make sure your cables arnt hung up. did it always do this? should idle about 1050 max when warm my 2016 idles at 850 to 950 most of the time and i like it there. good luck :cheers:
YMMV but my rig does not like anything below 1k rpm. I try and keep it set at 1100, any lower and after 50 miles or so she wants to stall at red lights. after setting at 1100 I haven't had a problem in over 3k miles.
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hotflash44
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Re: High idle

Post by hotflash44 » Sat Oct 06, 2018 10:58 am

Daisy Cutter wrote:
Sat Oct 06, 2018 10:08 am
hotflash44 wrote:
Sat Oct 06, 2018 8:35 am
HassoBoxhead wrote:
Fri Oct 05, 2018 11:15 pm
I’ve been riding my new-to-me 2014 GU for a couple weeks now and am concerned that the idle runs high after it warms up, so much so that when I put it in gear, it clunks hard and you can feel it in your bones. Is there something I can do to address this?

Thanx in advance!
Of course, the EFI throttle butter flys can be adjusted,but unless you have OBDwiz software or something similar it should be taken to a Ural dealer for adjustment. But before you do all that make sure your cables arnt hung up. did it always do this? should idle about 1050 max when warm my 2016 idles at 850 to 950 most of the time and i like it there. good luck :cheers:
YMMV but my rig does not like anything below 1k rpm. I try and keep it set at 1100, any lower and after 50 miles or so she wants to stall at red lights. after setting at 1100 I haven't had a problem in over 3k miles.
guess Urals have their own personality, mine when cool after brief warm up is happy at 750 RPM,but as it warm up it will stabilize at 950 ish. :cheers:
2016 gear up asphalt grey, name Seryy Medved ,Air America CIA circa 1967/8 Vung Tau Viet Nam USS Tutuila ARG-4 (AND JUST A TOUCH OF AGENT ORANGE!)

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Re: High idle

Post by eastbloc » Sat Oct 06, 2018 11:50 am

As per the manual idle on a fuel-injected Ural should be 1050RPM.

Regardless of idle RPM, there should be no "clunk" shifting into gear. This suggests a clutch cable out of adjustment. 2014 Urals came with faulty clutch arms that bend gradually over time requiring adjustment and eventually cannot be adjusted properly, if you're still on your original you will want to replace it.
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Re: High idle

Post by hotflash44 » Sat Oct 06, 2018 2:02 pm

eastbloc wrote:
Sat Oct 06, 2018 11:50 am
As per the manual idle on a fuel-injected Ural should be 1050RPM.

Regardless of idle RPM, there should be no "clunk" shifting into gear. This suggests a clutch cable out of adjustment. 2014 Urals came with faulty clutch arms that bend gradually over time requiring adjustment and eventually cannot be adjusted properly, if you're still on your original you will want to replace it.
Oh Yeah :thumbsup: ++ on that suggestion. :cheers:
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Re: High idle

Post by eastbloc » Sat Oct 06, 2018 2:30 pm

It was not entirely accurate to write there will be no "clunk" shifting into gear -- there's normally a clunk -- but there shouldn't be any sort of lurch or shudder as described by the OP :)
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Re: High idle

Post by HassoBoxhead » Mon Oct 08, 2018 3:37 pm

Took it in to a mechanic and he adjusted the idle and now it purrs. Also had them do the off road tune. Thanx to all for the excellent information!
99A5CBA5-A200-41FA-9E36-956FD3B36AC5.jpeg
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Re: High idle

Post by hotflash44 » Mon Oct 08, 2018 7:58 pm

HassoBoxhead wrote:
Mon Oct 08, 2018 3:37 pm
Took it in to a mechanic and he adjusted the idle and now it purrs. Also had them do the off road tune. Thanx to all for the excellent information!

99A5CBA5-A200-41FA-9E36-956FD3B36AC5.jpeg
Amazing what the right software and a couple of clicks will do, glad you got it running good, should be okay for a long time had my idle adjusted a year and a half ago and all is staying put. :cheers:
2016 gear up asphalt grey, name Seryy Medved ,Air America CIA circa 1967/8 Vung Tau Viet Nam USS Tutuila ARG-4 (AND JUST A TOUCH OF AGENT ORANGE!)

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Re: High idle

Post by SgtFear85 » Thu Aug 29, 2019 2:24 pm

I have a 2018 GU...just broke it in and have the same problem. Cold the rpm is good...hot it idles at over 2k. The OBDWiz showed it cycling between 12-15 kpa on the left cylinder WITHOUT the engine running, same with the engine running so I couldnt balance the EFI. I had it towed to Holopaw Ural....waiting to see what they find.

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Re: High idle

Post by sixbennetts » Thu Aug 29, 2019 7:30 pm

Our 07 Retro is obviously carbureted. I've noticed this too. On long rides, when the bike warms up, it can take 5 or 10 seconds for the rpm's to drop from 4k to 3k when I pull the clutch in for an upshift.

Why is that?
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Claus
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Re: High idle

Post by Claus » Fri Aug 30, 2019 5:50 am

I really don´t want to hijack this EFI-related threat but would like to answer sixbennets question. Would one of the mods shift this to another place, please?

sixbennetts wrote:
Thu Aug 29, 2019 7:30 pm
Our 07 Retro is obviously carbureted. I've noticed this too. On long rides, when the bike warms up, it can take 5 or 10 seconds for the rpm's to drop from 4k to 3k when I pull the clutch in for an upshift.

Why is that?
the modern fuel degrades realtiveley quick and applies a varnish similar layer onto the jets (even if it´s sold as alcohol free gas). This builds up every time the bike sits for a longer time and after a while it starts to cause disturbances.
Generally speaking there are three primary causes of your problem:
> air leak between carb and head
> ignition setting too much advanced
> idle mixture too lean.

To work off in a structured manner one should start with spraying the carb joints with brake cleaner liberally.(one at the time) If engine revs drop there is a leak detected and has to be eliminated.
Once shure that no leak exists, ignition shold be checked with a stobe light in idle and with a motor temperature, where it does not run high.
(say 950-1050 rpm in idle). If that´s correct, idle mixture is the culprit. Basic setting of PILOT screw (idle mixture screw) is 1.5 turns out on Keihin carbs. The screw that is located near the rubber joint to head from beneath.

To do it without full equipment (CO-tester etc) let engine warm up until it starts to go into high idle revs. turn one carb off by turning the IDLE screw out until the cylinder dies out.(the screw, that regulates the throttle, located on the tin bracket on the outside of the carb in engine housing direction)

Now turn the PILOT screw (idle mixture screw) of the working carb out until you reach the highest idle. While doing that, regulate the idle by turning IDLE srew to where the engine works steady on thin one cylinder.
Now restart the non working carb by turning the idle screw back in. After both carbs are running again, proceed same work on other carb (pilot screw out until highest idle etc)
After doing that, synchronize both carbs to an idle around 1000 rpm and you´re done.
If this doesn´t work, the idle jet has to be cleaned and the set up starts again.
Sounds complicated but is done in less than an hour.

I would prefer a CO-reading between 2.2 and 3.3 % CO in idle with warmed up engine. You might have a shop around you where someone is willing to check your CO for small money.

One other culprit could be the throttle cables. There must be 1 to 3 mm of slack in the cables. On most ural Keihins its hardly possible to set up with that slack, because the cable holder bracket is constructed poorly. It is mandatory the the idle is set by IDLE screw and not by throttle cable tension!


Sometimes lean idle mixture comes from a squashed O-ring that seals the Pilot screw to the carb housing. It´s located in the pilot screw boring.
order of parts when building it in: pilot screw, spring, washer,O-ring.
owned bikes: 93 Ural rig domestic model, 95 Suzuki DR 659 RSE, BMW R100GS, Suzuki GSX1100G rig, BMW R100R rig with Ural sidecar, Ural rig with BMW drivetrain under construction,

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Re: High idle

Post by sixbennetts » Fri Aug 30, 2019 1:21 pm

Thanks for that, Claus. And I didn't realize it was an efi thread, sorry I for the hijack, HassoBoxhead.
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I love her, she loves me.
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2007 Ural Retro, "Подарок солдата солдату"

"I'm slow and like to go old."
Plattsburgh NY

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