I am getting frustrated...Battery light, cutting off of 2017 UPDATE 11/10/17!

Woe unto you that bought the first model year of a major remake, perhaps this section can help address any 2014 and later model Ural "imperfections". Here's a special section for folks with the latest rigs to discuss 2014 and later model-related topics such fuel injection, 3-wheel disc brakes, hydraulic steering dampers, spin-on oil filters and other anomalies that don't belong on true Russsian motorcycle ;-P We've gone from using big hammers and greasy wrenches to needing computers and Ouija boards in order to fix our rigs.
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Please keep this section specific to issues pertaining to 2014 and later models such as fuel injection, sidecar and rear disc brakes and so forth. Ask general or non-2014 and later specific questions in the main Hammerin' & Wrenchin' section.
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:FI:Igor
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Re: I am getting frustrated...Battery light, cutting off of 2017 UPDATE 11/10/17!

Post by :FI:Igor » Sat Nov 11, 2017 12:57 pm

Sounds like my machine. Starts on second start attempt, will die if I give it throttle to quick, runs fine after less than five minute warm up. I wouldn't be too concerned about the charging system, sounds normal. I would recommend a battery 'tender' to prolong battery life and ensure the battery is always charged.
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Re: I am getting frustrated...Battery light, cutting off of 2017 UPDATE 11/10/17!

Post by Mr Wazzock » Sat Nov 11, 2017 1:16 pm

kayakguy wrote:I am thinking the same thing on time. It starts right up, I just cant give it any throttle for 20-30 seconds or it dies and even then I have to feed the fuel slow for a few revs. Then it settles down and is fine. I am just not used to a fuel injected bike needing this, but then again I am not used to Urals...but I am getting there in a crash course!
Sounds not unusual. When I start mine cold I let it idle for as long as it takes check all the lights work and put my gloves on. Interestingly it was more temperamental in the hot summer, wanting to die on the driveway while waiting for a gap in traffic to pull out. At the moment - November, temps being in single or tens Celsius at the mo - it's OK and won't fluff while waiting.

But I was told by dealer problee will need to give it a couple of mins to warm up and settle down on a cold start.

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Re: I am getting frustrated...Battery light, cutting off of 2017 UPDATE 11/10/17!

Post by RAMDrive » Wed Nov 15, 2017 1:35 pm

kayakguy wrote:I am thinking the same thing on time. It starts right up, I just cant give it any throttle for 20-30 seconds or it dies and even then I have to feed the fuel slow for a few revs. Then it settles down and is fine. I am just not used to a fuel injected bike needing this, but then again I am not used to Urals...but I am getting there in a crash course!
Same start up procedure for mine too; the throttle bodies might need balancing. I've had it done one once before, but it's time to do it again; cables stretch. I've noticed my battery light comes on form time to time. I generally just plug in the tender over night about every 1.5 to 2 weeks. If the bike sits very long the battery will lose some charge; I do the same for my other bike. To help with battery charging, If I'm running all my lights, charging my phone, or anything that pulls more power then normal, when I'm at a red light, I rev the engine slightly to spin the alternator and charge.
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Re: I am getting frustrated...Battery light, cutting off of 2017 UPDATE 11/10/17!

Post by Subsnowden » Thu Jan 11, 2018 10:59 pm

I am having a similar issue with my battery light coming on and the bike basically dying. I just replaced the battery and the alternator seems to be charging appropriately at cruising rpms. What did they do to determine the alternator was bad?
Jon
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Re: I am getting frustrated...Battery light, cutting off of 2017 UPDATE 11/10/17!

Post by Lmo » Fri Jan 12, 2018 3:29 pm

20-30 seconds... ? I generally let ANYTHING warm up for a few minutes. 'Guess I'm old school.
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Re: I am getting frustrated...Battery light, cutting off of 2017 UPDATE 11/10/17!

Post by hotflash44 » Fri Jan 12, 2018 5:37 pm

Lmo,Ditto same here especially with the Ural oiling system make sure the oil is warm and everywhere it should be, good old school thinking is good! :old: :old: :cheers:
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Re: I am getting frustrated...Battery light, cutting off of 2017 UPDATE 11/10/17!

Post by Mr Wazzock » Sat Jan 13, 2018 2:31 pm

Subsnowden wrote:I am having a similar issue with my battery light coming on and the bike basically dying. I just replaced the battery and the alternator seems to be charging appropriately at cruising rpms. What did they do to determine the alternator was bad?
I want to know too.

Also, (long shot) does anyone have a circuit diagram of the regulator?


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Re: I am getting frustrated...Battery light, cutting off of 2017 UPDATE 11/10/17!

Post by Subsnowden » Fri Jan 19, 2018 12:10 pm

kayakguy wrote:And the verdict is...a bad alternator.

However that leads to another question. Now the bike is finicky when it is cold. Only on start up. as soon as it is a little bit warm it runs A-ok. But its fuel injected so I am not used to needing to warm it up before riding. However this is the first time it has been in cold weather at right around 34 degrees.

How is yours in cold weather? Is this just crappy mapping on Ural's part?

I also know that fuel injection can adjust a bit based on conditions. As in many bikes don't actually need to be remapped when you swap exhaust if you don't get too radical. It spent a while with a crappy charging system and that affects pretty much everything to some extent. Is it possible this will smooth out in a few miles?

ETA: Just to clarify...the alternator is fixed.
How did they determine the alternator was bad with normal readings? I’m asking because I may be experiencing the same issue but I can’t take it to a dealer
Jon
Central Texas/Copperas Cove
2016 DR-Z400 SM
2015 Ural Gear Up
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Re: I am getting frustrated...Battery light, cutting off of 2017 UPDATE 11/10/17!

Post by Trumpetwasher » Sun May 13, 2018 10:35 am

Air cooled bikes as a rule don't charge at idle. As for starting, I start my bike and let it idle while I put on my helmet and gloves. That's usually enough time to keep it from popping and banging too much.
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