High Tension Terminal

Woe unto you that bought the first model year of a major remake, perhaps this section can help address any 2014 and later model Ural "imperfections". Here's a special section for folks with the latest rigs to discuss 2014 and later model-related topics such fuel injection, 3-wheel disc brakes, hydraulic steering dampers, spin-on oil filters and other anomalies that don't belong on true Russsian motorcycle ;-P We've gone from using big hammers and greasy wrenches to needing computers and Ouija boards in order to fix our rigs.
Forum rules
Please keep this section specific to issues pertaining to 2014 and later models such as fuel injection, sidecar and rear disc brakes and so forth. Ask general or non-2014 and later specific questions in the main Hammerin' & Wrenchin' section.
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Mr Wazzock
Hero of the Soviet Union - 2019
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Replacing The Spark Plug Leads

Post by Mr Wazzock » Thu Oct 17, 2019 12:14 pm

Well it's Thursday, and was dry and sunny to start, so got me a$$ outside.

Often it's not as complicated you think it' might to be. Only slight issue is pulling the coil booties off without pulling the wires out, some silicone lube then support the wire at the back with one hand, and gently tease it off with the other. It isn't very tight. (I got filthy dirty doing this because of all the WD40 I'd sprayed on them, even had to go put on nitrile gloves!).

When the coil end is fully exposed, you can plainly see the metal crimp terminal just staring at you. Strikes me this is not ideal, I'd much prefer the plug wire insulation went right down into the coil "socket". As been said by others, this terminal unscrews.


Materials I used:
* PVC ignition (HT) cable, 7mm O/D with stranded copper core: length for each side, 14 inches.
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PVC ignition (HT) cable, 7mm O_D with stranded copper core.jpg
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* PVC sleeving, 8mm bore: length each, 9 inches. (This is for extra external mechanical protection, e.g. against chafing.)

* NGK plug cap LZFH, non-resistor 90 degrees black, 2 off, BUT using the plug seal grommets from the NGK LB05 style cap. (The holes are too small in the grommets provided with LZFH. You might be able to enlarge them carefully with a knife. It just so happened that I also have LB05E's available.)
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LZFH+LB seal.jpg
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Image

Of the two original carbon core leads, on the DMM one measured 3.5 kΩ, the other 4 kΩ.

I am currently using Brisk NR14CY plugs.

Did not need the crimping tool! Just screws on at both ends. Easy-peasy.

More to follow shortly...
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Mike H
2016 Ural cT, in glorious terracotta
(aka Oranzhevaya Opasnost, "The Orange Peril")

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Mr Wazzock
Hero of the Soviet Union - 2019
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Replacing The Spark Plug Leads

Post by Mr Wazzock » Thu Oct 17, 2019 12:32 pm

Originally I was going to try these crimp type caps but not really any different to what was already on there. So I didn't, I reverted to plan 'A', viz, go for NGK caps.

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Plug Leads_2890.jpg
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Plug Leads_2887.jpg
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Plug Leads_2888.jpg
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Plug Leads_2889.jpg
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Mike H
2016 Ural cT, in glorious terracotta
(aka Oranzhevaya Opasnost, "The Orange Peril")

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Mr Wazzock
Hero of the Soviet Union - 2019
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Replacing The Spark Plug Leads

Post by Mr Wazzock » Thu Oct 17, 2019 12:35 pm

First start-up test. Not faked!





Not long after this the rain started p!ssing down again!
Mike H
2016 Ural cT, in glorious terracotta
(aka Oranzhevaya Opasnost, "The Orange Peril")

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Mr Wazzock
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Re: High Tension Terminal

Post by Mr Wazzock » Mon Oct 21, 2019 11:43 am

As I mentioned elsewhere, it sounds different with the new leads. Slightly louder exhaust noise. Did 200 miles to Essex and back on Sunday, no problems.

The day before, I deliberately left it overnight without covers. Next morning was cold and heavy dew, and it started pretty much first time without me having to spray anything on it. This is good! This is what we want. :thumbsup:

During the trip, went really well, even towing the trailer. Overtook a couple of cars! And a tractor. :D
Mike H
2016 Ural cT, in glorious terracotta
(aka Oranzhevaya Opasnost, "The Orange Peril")

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Re: High Tension Terminal

Post by AndyH » Tue Oct 22, 2019 3:03 pm

Thanks for posting this, I really like this mod - had a few issues myself chasing down an intermittent fault over nearly a year.
Ended up getting two new leads from Ural and the difference once replaced was very noticeable.
2015 Ural EU Tourist -

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Mr Wazzock
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Re: High Tension Terminal

Post by Mr Wazzock » Tue Oct 22, 2019 4:37 pm

Thanks! :thumbsup:

Yes I wonder what the "working life" is.

As a footnote, I put spiralwrap onto the plug wires, as extra mechanical protection, as soon as I got the bike (brand new), back in 2017. I took the spiralwrap off the leads when I took them off, and it's left the spiral pattern indented into the silicone or whatever it is insulation. Never seen that before and I've put spiralwrap on a lot of different things. :blink:

I also hate conductve carbon core with a passion, and the oddball coil terminal is just screwy. If you pull the cover boot off the coil (very carefully!) its sticking out in the breeze. It's all weird.
Mike H
2016 Ural cT, in glorious terracotta
(aka Oranzhevaya Opasnost, "The Orange Peril")

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BlueRockCrawler
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Re: High Tension Terminal

Post by BlueRockCrawler » Tue Oct 22, 2019 11:22 pm

Mr Wazzock wrote:
Tue Oct 22, 2019 4:37 pm
I also hate conductve carbon core with a passion, and the oddball coil terminal is just screwy. If you pull the cover boot off the coil (very carefully!) its sticking out in the breeze. It's all weird.
LOL, I agree and tossed the whole thing for something more robust. Those funky connectors just loosen no matter what you do and when you spin them off the coil, the carbon cores break in the wires. Are your new wires big enough to hold on with friction after you screw them down onto the coil?
2015 Ural Patrol
1993 Suzuki DR 650
2018 Suzuki DR 650
previous Honda's were
1996 750 Magna
2002 750 shadow A.C.E.
2004 919
1985 500 Magna

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Mr Wazzock
Hero of the Soviet Union - 2019
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Re: High Tension Terminal

Post by Mr Wazzock » Wed Oct 23, 2019 1:21 pm

Yes. The screw thread seems to grip and the outer sheath, 7mm OD remember, seems to go tight in the tunnel. Only tighten "enough", not go mad. The coil boot cover thing is not least an aid to holding it in as well. :D

You know the "ears" that stick out the sides of the alternator? I use those to support the leads further back, with zip ties.
Mike H
2016 Ural cT, in glorious terracotta
(aka Oranzhevaya Opasnost, "The Orange Peril")

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