Speedometer/odometer quit

Woe unto you that bought the first model year of a major remake, perhaps this section can help address any 2014 and later model Ural "imperfections". Here's a special section for folks with the latest rigs to discuss 2014 and later model-related topics such fuel injection, 3-wheel disc brakes, hydraulic steering dampers, spin-on oil filters and other anomalies that don't belong on true Russsian motorcycle ;-P We've gone from using big hammers and greasy wrenches to needing computers and Ouija boards in order to fix our rigs.
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Please keep this section specific to issues pertaining to 2014 and later models such as fuel injection, sidecar and rear disc brakes and so forth. Ask general or non-2014 and later specific questions in the main Hammerin' & Wrenchin' section.
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Re: Speedometer/odometer quit

Post by Wildhorse Cafe » Tue Jul 04, 2017 3:20 am

Some times the cable jumper between the speedometer and the odometer gets bound up. You may be able to free up and lube the cable to restore function. :foilhead:
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Re: Speedometer/odometer quit

Post by Tomcatfixer » Tue Jul 04, 2017 7:02 am

Some times the cable jumper between the speedometer and the odometer gets bound up.
There are no cables inside my 2015's mechanical speedometer...
2017-07-04 05.57.52.jpg
...only gears and the eddy current speedometer needle driver.
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2015 Ural cT "Mobile Chernobyl", 1999 Ural Tourist "Desert DisGrace: the Iron (Oxide) Curtain", 1994 Honda VFR750F, 1986 Yamaha FZX700S Fazer

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2007 Honda VTR1000 FireStorm (Super Hawk in U.S.)
2001 Buell Blast! - - - - - - - 2005 Yamaha FJR1300
1993 Honda CBR600F2 - -1984 Yamaha FJ1100
1986 Yamaha FZX700S (a different one than above)

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Re: Speedometer/odometer quit

Post by keeser » Tue Jul 04, 2017 10:25 am

Burt1713 wrote:
keeser wrote:this morning i had to come to a very abrupt stop, all was well except my speedo went screwy on me. indicator goes all the way over to the peg. at idle in neutral it reads about 16 mph, any suggestion???????? 2017 gear-up 1000 miles

I would check for loose connections between the speed sensor on the transmission and the speedometer.

Thanks i will. i even pulled the fuse to see if that would reboot it ,nothing , goes to dealer tomorrow.

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Re: Speedometer/odometer quit

Post by Burt1713 » Tue Jul 04, 2017 11:30 am

keeser wrote:Thanks i will. i even pulled the fuse to see if that would reboot it ,nothing , goes to dealer tomorrow.
Let us know what you find out.
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Re: Speedometer/odometer quit

Post by AndyH » Sun Mar 11, 2018 3:20 am

Tomcatfixer wrote:Or, are you referring to the flexible drive coupler plate itself? Once you remove either the castle nut or Nylock (depending upon your year of Ural), the flexible drive coupler plate can be easily removed from the transmission output shaft by hand.
2017-07-02 19.32.37.jpg
Sorry to resurrect this thread - Tomcat, wondering if you had run across buckets of silicon underneath the Nylock nut. Initially I couldnt tell it was castellated or Nylock. I picked it out carefully and finally got access to the nut. It is off but the washer is almost solid and the Flexible Coupling plate wont come off the shaft.
I don't want to force it.
There is some movement on the shaft but not back and forwards. I have picked out as much of the old silicon as possible but cant seem to free the washer.
Any suggestions?
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Re: Speedometer/odometer quit

Post by Tomcatfixer » Sun Mar 11, 2018 5:46 am

wondering if you had run across buckets of silicon underneath the Nylock nut.
Yes, my 2015 was packed generously, as well.
Any suggestions?
The only thing that the washer could potentially get hung upon is the "legacy" cotter pin hole on the output shaft that still exists on late-model Urals, but you should be able to move the flexible drive coupler plate fore and aft before the washer reaches the cotter pin hole.

If you can't wrestle the coupler plate free of the silicone caulk's grip with your bare hands or with a prybar, then it's time to use a bearing/gear puller.
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Current rides:
2015 Ural cT "Mobile Chernobyl", 1999 Ural Tourist "Desert DisGrace: the Iron (Oxide) Curtain", 1994 Honda VFR750F, 1986 Yamaha FZX700S Fazer

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2007 Honda VTR1000 FireStorm (Super Hawk in U.S.)
2001 Buell Blast! - - - - - - - 2005 Yamaha FJR1300
1993 Honda CBR600F2 - -1984 Yamaha FJ1100
1986 Yamaha FZX700S (a different one than above)

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Re: Speedometer/odometer quit

Post by AndyH » Sun Mar 11, 2018 6:19 am

Thanks,
It isn't getting hung up on the cotter pin hole, that's full of gunk as well.
I didn't want to use a pry bar because there isn't anything to lever it against other than the housing - not my idea of a good outcome.
IMG_1917s.jpg
Think I will see if I can shift the washer and take the last option of using a puller. Might have to rig something up to pull from the frame rather than push on the shaft.
I am sure it will pop, just don't want to break anything else while I am doing it.
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Re: Speedometer/odometer quit

Post by Tomcatfixer » Sun Mar 11, 2018 6:23 am

You can safely push on the transmission output shaft and pull on the coupler plate. No damage should occur to either component.

Hope you can get the washer out and, if you can't, I hope it doesn't damage your threads upon extraction.
- Chad

Virginia Beach, Virginia, USA

Current rides:
2015 Ural cT "Mobile Chernobyl", 1999 Ural Tourist "Desert DisGrace: the Iron (Oxide) Curtain", 1994 Honda VFR750F, 1986 Yamaha FZX700S Fazer

Previous rides:
2007 Honda VTR1000 FireStorm (Super Hawk in U.S.)
2001 Buell Blast! - - - - - - - 2005 Yamaha FJR1300
1993 Honda CBR600F2 - -1984 Yamaha FJ1100
1986 Yamaha FZX700S (a different one than above)

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Re: Speedometer/odometer quit

Post by Tomcatfixer » Sun Mar 11, 2018 6:28 am

Just for your reference, here's the cavity in which the coupler plate is placed.
2018-03-11 06.24.59.jpg
As you can see, nothing else should prevent the plate's removal. It's probably just the remaining sealant that you can't access, which must be broken free.
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- Chad

Virginia Beach, Virginia, USA

Current rides:
2015 Ural cT "Mobile Chernobyl", 1999 Ural Tourist "Desert DisGrace: the Iron (Oxide) Curtain", 1994 Honda VFR750F, 1986 Yamaha FZX700S Fazer

Previous rides:
2007 Honda VTR1000 FireStorm (Super Hawk in U.S.)
2001 Buell Blast! - - - - - - - 2005 Yamaha FJR1300
1993 Honda CBR600F2 - -1984 Yamaha FJ1100
1986 Yamaha FZX700S (a different one than above)

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Re: Speedometer/odometer quit

Post by Mr Wazzock » Sun Mar 11, 2018 1:24 pm

AndyH wrote: I didn't want to use a pry bar because there isn't anything to lever it against other than the housing - not my idea of a good outcome.
You can put leather or something on the casing?

I presume you are doing this because the worm drives have failed like mine did? Had mine replaced last service but can't remember what dealer did to remove the yoke. Probably big screwdriver!

BTW the "buckets of silicone" is necessary to stop a gearbox oil leak out thru the splines, so similar needs putting back on it when you reassemble.

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Re: Speedometer/odometer quit

Post by AndyH » Sun Mar 11, 2018 3:12 pm

Yes, worm drive failed, unfortunately the two gents who owned the rig before me didn't put many miles on it and I am inheriting a load of issues that should have been rectified during the warranty period.
IMG_1901s.jpg

The worm drive is worn but I wouldn't call it excessive, what is excessive is the wear on the Flexible Plate Coupling (viewed down the hole), will get a shot of it when it comes out, but seems to me that isn't such a good design to have the easily removable gear part harder than the difficult to get out gear part.
Luckily the Speedo / Odometer and cable seem to be ok, I will lube them while I have a chance. My small drill driver runs the speedo at 40kmph and the needle is steady.

Someone can chime in now and say "Welcome to the world of Ural"
Thanks for all you help folks.
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Re: Speedometer/odometer quit

Post by AndyH » Sat Apr 07, 2018 3:00 am

IMG_1968s.jpg
Thanks for all the advice,
I finally got the spares and pulled the old Flex Coupling. I didn't have to force it out, just wiggle the washer and dig out all the crud. The seal almost dropped out and it looks like someone might have been digging around in there before.

Tomorrow it all goes back together. I have been assured that the new drive is not made of cheese like the one in the photo.
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Re: Speedometer/odometer quit

Post by Mr Wazzock » Sat Apr 07, 2018 1:16 pm

I should hope so. Would make a nice change! :D

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Re: Speedometer/odometer quit

Post by Snakeoil » Sat Apr 07, 2018 10:23 pm

Not able to speak specifically to Urals, but common cause for speedo worm drive failures is cable issues. Binding due to rust, dirt, kinks, sharp bends, or rust will allow speedo to work while heavily loading the drive gears. The result is rapid gear wear. A core with no end play can also cause binding. But that issue normally kills the bearing in the speedo head, first.
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