Shifting clunk

Woe unto you that bought the first model year of a major remake, perhaps this section can help address any 2014 and later model Ural "imperfections". Here's a special section for folks with the latest rigs to discuss 2014 and later model-related topics such fuel injection, 3-wheel disc brakes, hydraulic steering dampers, spin-on oil filters and other anomalies that don't belong on true Russsian motorcycle ;-P We've gone from using big hammers and greasy wrenches to needing computers and Ouija boards in order to fix our rigs.
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Please keep this section specific to issues pertaining to 2014 and later models such as fuel injection, sidecar and rear disc brakes and so forth. Ask general or non-2014 and later specific questions in the main Hammerin' & Wrenchin' section.
swimmerdood
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Shifting clunk

Post by swimmerdood » Wed Apr 08, 2020 5:54 pm

Hey all,

Am new to riding overall (1 1/2 years) and very new to Urals. Bought a 2019 CT last year.

This may sound like a VERY newbie question but how loud is it supposed to sound when I shift? There is a very distinctive clunk which does not happen with the Harley I ride for work. Also, how high should the revs be when I shift? I am up to 4the gear by 60 km/hr.

Am I missing something or doing something wrong?

Besides that I am loving her.

Thanks :)

Be safe

Erik
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ReCycled
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Re: Shifting clunk

Post by ReCycled » Wed Apr 08, 2020 7:35 pm

Heavy CLUNK is normal, grinding is not.

Sounds like you're shifting too early. Fourth gear shouldn't be until closer to 60 MPH.
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Re: Shifting clunk

Post by Peter Pan » Wed Apr 08, 2020 8:37 pm

It is designed that way:
That was the way the KGB agent on the other side of the village used to notice, that you left the farm.
They all do that. :P
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Re: Shifting clunk

Post by Lmo » Wed Apr 08, 2020 9:15 pm

No tach so it's hard to describe... I always allow engine rpm to drop [200-300 rpm] when up-shifting; it reduces the 'thunk' somewhat. These things aren't UJMs so snicking through the gear isn't possible. You should be to-heel shifting as well.

My '73 BMW R75/5 thunks a little bit as well, and responds to the same rpm drop procedure.
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Re: Shifting clunk

Post by Snakeoil » Thu Apr 09, 2020 12:20 pm

Which one is you?? :wink:

You should ride an old Shovelhead Harley. You think your Ural clunks? A Shovelhead sounds like somebody dropped a crowbar on the pavement when you shift. I always loved that sound when I was a kid and guys would ride by on Panheads and early Shovels.

Enjoy your new rig.
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Re: Shifting clunk

Post by ArgonV » Thu Apr 09, 2020 12:42 pm

Clunk here as well on my 2016 Retro - took a bit to get used to, but at least you know it shifted! I can say, if you give the shifter a little preload before you actually shift all the way up or down - the clunk is less.
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Re: Shifting clunk

Post by RC20 » Thu Apr 09, 2020 1:41 pm

Clunk is normal, yours sounds fine.

Shifting is a much debated area, so I will give you my take on it.

One key is how hard are you accelerating? An up shift and idling, light acceleration along does not lug the engine but an up-shift and trying to accelerate moderate to hard does (or with a load).

Also loaded vs unloaded, you need more speed for loaded (maybe obvious but.....)

So, here are my accelerating hard and or loaded up-shift points in speed (if you are a bit fiddly with electrical you can hook the tach up that is in the display)

First Gear: 25 mph
Second Gear: 35 mph
Third gear: 55 mph
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Re: Shifting clunk

Post by windmill » Thu Apr 09, 2020 3:49 pm

Clunks are good grinding isn't, clean shifting will come time, usually once one no longer thinks about it.

I'm in the other school of thought about shifting, matching RPMs to load rather than speed. That could be 4th at 35 mph going down hill or with a strong tail wind. It could be 3rd gear at 60 mph up a short steep grade.
In short, avoid unproductive lugging or racing for arbitrary numbers.
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Re: Shifting clunk

Post by cookiemech » Thu Apr 09, 2020 4:14 pm

Exactly what Barry said. My 2020 GU is smoother and better in every way than my 2014 GU, including the transmission. But it still has a good "clunk" when shifting, somewhat similar to the 1976 BMW R75/6 I once had. Nothing wrong with that. My Honda CB1100 has no clunk whatever. When I want shifting perfection I ride that. Different fun with the Ural.

And I second what someone said about using the heel/toe shifter. I never liked them before and took the heel part off every Harley I ever bought (guess they have stopped making them standard on Touring bikes in the past year or two). But on the Ural, I use the heel part for every upshift and it makes a big difference in smooth and definite shifts. Pretty much no false neutrals with the heel shifter.
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Re: Shifting clunk

Post by S 854 » Thu Apr 09, 2020 5:28 pm

To paraphrase your Harley background... “Loud gears save lives...”
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Re: Shifting clunk

Post by :FI:Igor » Thu Apr 09, 2020 8:38 pm

Load clunky is normal.
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Re: Shifting clunk

Post by VWK75S » Fri Apr 10, 2020 6:10 am

Lmo wrote:
Wed Apr 08, 2020 9:15 pm
allow engine rpm to drop [200-300 rpm] when up-shifting;
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Re: Shifting clunk

Post by RC20 » Fri Apr 10, 2020 1:51 pm

The speeds I posted are pretty much top end for a worst case (most demanding conditions) shift on 2019+. Less power on the previous ones and you would have to adjust the acceleration or even not reach those speeds on a climb. Not having driven one though I may get to I can't say nor will claim what I don't know.

They are not cast in stone, but for the 2019 I found that 3200 rpm for the next gear was where I was comfortable performance wise (can accelerate as needed, no lugging) - but a good part of the reason I went with a 2019 vs an older one was the better performance .

However, using the mph to rpm chart a member did (I confirmed the numbers are so close for a 2019 as to be spot on), if you shift at 15 mph from first to second , you are doing to drop 1200 rpm (varies but around that across the shifts)

Max torque is (older machines I have not seen hp or toque for 2019+) is 4300.

For me 3200 roughly works, but I won't claim any knowledge at all for earlier models.

It should be noted that guidance from Ural is that 4950 (70 empty) is max sustained and still recommends a cool off every couple of hours. Air temp plays a role but there is no guidance on that. I pretty much take a break, get fuel, food (back when restaurants were open) every couple of hours regardless. At the end of the 16.5 hour day (total not in saddle) I was taking a break every 50 miles due to butt hurting.
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Formerly Owned: ( various rides on others)
Honda 90
2 x CB750K (one a true Japan Model flown to Hawaii by a P3 Orion Sub Patrol Aircraft!)
1 x CB700 SC ala Shaft Drive Nighthawk S (RC20 is the actual in house production Model)
1 x R80GS (ok to start with, learned to love it for what it was)
1 x CB450K

Current:
1 x 2019 cT Terracotta

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Re: Shifting clunk

Post by Happytrails » Fri Apr 10, 2020 5:24 pm

Lmo wrote:
Wed Apr 08, 2020 9:15 pm
... I always allow engine rpm to drop [200-300 rpm] when up-shifting; it reduces the 'thunk' somewhat.
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: +2

So used to UJMs that I was always too eager to shift a Ural. Giving it that little bit to drop works out nice. :)

Find myself wishing I had a nice big tach! :?
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Re: Shifting clunk

Post by swimmerdood » Sat Apr 11, 2020 12:40 am

OK. That was going to be my next question. Without an RPM gauge all i hear is the high revs. Is unsettling. Another fun bit I have to learn and get used to/
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