brake lever chop & re-weld service(not taking new order)

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gobium
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Re: brake lever chop & re-weld service

Post by gobium » Fri May 16, 2014 1:42 pm

biggziff wrote:You doing swaps yet? I was going to do my own, but if you have pre-made levers I'd rather give you the $$$ and save the time!
Not yet.
let you guys know soon.
5 new levers is might spoken for. Sold out?

gobium
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Re: brake lever chop & re-weld service

Post by gobium » Fri May 16, 2014 2:16 pm

Same day FASTER THAN BLUE URAL servive
Got lever this morning
ship out at 5pm
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Albuquralque
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Re: brake lever chop & re-weld service

Post by Albuquralque » Fri May 16, 2014 5:14 pm

:thumbsup:
"Put a little gravel in your travel"


Previous Urals Owned: 2004 Wolf, 2006 Tourist, 2006 Patrol (TOW), 2006 Patrol (TOM), 2014 Patrol

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vetsurginc
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Re: brake lever chop & re-weld service

Post by vetsurginc » Fri May 16, 2014 7:35 pm

:oops: Somehow that looks so much better than my cheap (and less effective) attempt :oops:

Image

Ready for another order? :bow: :bow:
Doug
2011 GearUp Vasily (Васи́лий) Main 125, idle 38, Raceway needles, and stock exhaust, MKIII air filter
2010 R1200RT Gustav
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Re: brake lever chop & re-weld service

Post by barnone » Fri May 16, 2014 9:57 pm

:lurker:
gobium,
Is there a backlog?
How does the exchange work? You send modified one first and customer sends his/hers back to you?

gobium
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Re: brake lever chop & re-weld service

Post by gobium » Sun May 18, 2014 8:37 am

not taking any more order at the moment.
I got too many requests on brake lever job.
Thank you for your supports

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csbdr
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Re: brake lever chop & re-weld service(not taking new order)

Post by csbdr » Sun May 18, 2014 9:25 pm

I would be interested when you get an opening
2002 Ural Tourist "Pikop Andropov" 39,000 km
2003 Yamaha Roadstar (hardly ridden anymore)
2009 Royal Enfield Bullet C5

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Re: brake lever chop & re-weld service

Post by Trevorski » Wed May 21, 2014 11:54 pm

vetsurginc wrote::oops: Somehow that looks so much better than my cheap (and less effective) attempt :oops:

Image

Ready for another order? :bow: :bow:
Ivan is applauding
2014 Asphalt Gray Gear Up: "Drastic Measures"
PNW Engine Guard, Biltwell "Tracker" handlebars, Depner 2-lever gated quadrant shifter... more in progress....
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2009 Royal Enfield AVL Scrambler- someone else's uncompleted project that I'll someday finish...
1995 Ural Tourist = "The Red Menace" owned 2007-April 2014.

gobium
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Re: brake lever chop & re-weld service(not taking new order)

Post by gobium » Thu May 22, 2014 7:20 am

Kris W.
2013 lever
done I day turn around
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BinDerSmokDat
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Re: brake lever chop & re-weld service

Post by BinDerSmokDat » Mon Jun 02, 2014 1:07 pm

Hansel wrote:any interest in doing a cut and reweld of a kickstarter lever? :) with my raceway foot boxes it is missing about 1.5" of travel....
I have the Raceway foot box and no problem kick starting the bike.
Didn't need to modify anything. It clears the foot box with a fraction of an inch to spare.

Did you try removing the kick start lever and rotate it on the shaft splines?
Are you sure it is bottoming out on the foot box?

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Hansel
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Re: brake lever chop & re-weld service

Post by Hansel » Mon Jun 02, 2014 1:42 pm

BinDerSmokDat wrote:
Hansel wrote:any interest in doing a cut and reweld of a kickstarter lever? :) with my raceway foot boxes it is missing about 1.5" of travel....
I have the Raceway foot box and no problem kick starting the bike.
Didn't need to modify anything. It clears the foot box with a fraction of an inch to spare.

Did you try removing the kick start lever and rotate it on the shaft splines?
Are you sure it is bottoming out on the foot box?
I could kickstart it, but it was hard as it wouldn't kick a full stroke. About 2" from the bottom of the stroke it hits the footbox. Van fixed it, essentially moving it 2" higher, documented in another thread.

There are no shaft splines on the kickstarter. its fits on one way and there is a wedge pin that holds it on the shaft.

Thats pretty awesome that yours clears... there is another guy on here who has the same issue i do. do you mind sharing a pic of your setup... I'm very curious

ryrypizza
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Re: brake lever chop & re-weld service(not taking new order)

Post by ryrypizza » Tue Jun 03, 2014 2:51 pm

Definitely interested when youre taking orders again!
-Ryan
Northern New Jersey
2002 patrol w/ mod tops and power arc

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Re: brake lever chop & re-weld service

Post by BinDerSmokDat » Wed Jun 04, 2014 7:38 am

Hansel wrote:
BinDerSmokDat wrote:
Hansel wrote:any interest in doing a cut and reweld of a kickstarter lever? :) with my raceway foot boxes it is missing about 1.5" of travel....
I have the Raceway foot box and no problem kick starting the bike.
Didn't need to modify anything. It clears the foot box with a fraction of an inch to spare.

Did you try removing the kick start lever and rotate it on the shaft splines?
Are you sure it is bottoming out on the foot box?
I could kickstart it, but it was hard as it wouldn't kick a full stroke. About 2" from the bottom of the stroke it hits the footbox. Van fixed it, essentially moving it 2" higher, documented in another thread.

There are no shaft splines on the kickstarter. its fits on one way and there is a wedge pin that holds it on the shaft.

Thats pretty awesome that yours clears... there is another guy on here who has the same issue i do. do you mind sharing a pic of your setup... I'm very curious
The link is in my sig, under Raceway Engine Guard, but here it is again...

http://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums/view ... 8&start=18

Note that the foot box sits below the frame.
You can see the kickstart bump stop on the frame just above the foot box.
I want to say when I installed it I checked and the lever hits the bump stop before the box.
I can confirm when I get home.

I don't want to hijack Van's thread anymore so if you have more foot box Q's ask them in the above link.

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Re: brake lever chop & re-weld service(not taking new order)

Post by gobium » Wed May 06, 2015 7:15 pm

MARV.
look in here.
all measurements you need on page 2

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Re: brake lever chop & re-weld service(not taking new order)

Post by Snakeoil » Sun Jun 14, 2015 10:14 pm

Just saw this. I'm chuckling because earlier this past week, I cut the piece of 1 inch box tubing off of my brake pedal because it made my foot position very limited. I spent the time to carefully grind off the welds and then with a triangular file, re-cut the crosshatch pattern on the pedal face. Now, I find that the pedal is poorly placed and understand why the block had been welded on. I had thought that the woman who owned this needed it because her legs were too short.

But the block was ugly. So, I may have to do this mod. But it has to be done so I have the ability to move my feet around. I never realized how much the block limited foot movement until I went to that event last weekend which was an hour+ ride. If I moved my foot forward, it would rest on the pedal and I did not want to ride around with the brake light on.

So, for those who have had this mod, how's the foot room when you take a long ride? Do you find your foot resting on the pedal.

Wish there were more room to put the pad even higher and further forward so it was more like a Harley with floorboards. That would provide lots of foot room and no risk of riding the pedal. I need to look more closely at this and see if I cannot do this. Damn pedal would have to be on the right.

regards,
Rob
Regards,
Rob
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2000 Ural Tourist
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