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1996 Deco Classic
Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2020 11:09 pm
Getting a 96 deco classic that needs new carbs. Other than that the bike runs well and all the lights work. Cosmetically it looks really good for its age. Any gotchas out there for this model? It's significantly cheaper than new which is my other option.
Re: 1996 Deco Classic
Posted: Tue Jul 07, 2020 12:11 am
A 1996 Ural is several generations removed from a new Ural.
The 650 engine is in my opinion prettier than the 750 but the 5 piece crank is a weak spot. Top safe long term cruising speed will be 60mph or less, cranks are prone to twisting and when that happens you'll need to rebuild. Replacement cranks from China seem ok.
The ignition system is likely a very early microprocessor called a Type 1, might work might give you challenges.
The bike will be kickstart only. Carbs are simple.
The G424 Alternator puts out 150 watts.
If you enjoy working on bikes, it will be fun to tinker with and will give you lots of tinkering. If you want long term reliability you may wish to reconsider, it will likely never be 100% reliable but a few minutes here or there to adjust something and you should be back on the road.
The Soviet Union collapsed in 1992. There was a pretty dark period of time for Ural after that. An upgrade midway through 1998, the 1998.5 bikes are an improvement, the 2002 introduction of the 750 to the US, 2007 getting timing gears that don't randomly disintegrate, the generational changes go on and on. A new Ural is almost reliable, they still have quirks, it's not a Honda, but they are far from the Russian Piece of Crap days. A 1996 is gonna be a RPOC even after sorting.
In a sense, the whole bike is one big Gotcha. There are some neat quirks, you can rebuild the shocks, the steel wheels are very strong, if you modify the front brake cable with the Triumph Clutch Cable mod and get an alignment tool you can take the front brake from being almost useless to being usable.
Parts are gonna mostly be eBay, Terry Crawford may have some random stuff.
Re: 1996 Deco Classic
Posted: Tue Jul 07, 2020 8:07 am
I have a 2001 Deco and love it. The mechanicals are simple but will require some looking after. If you are relatively handy or willing to learn you will find it easy to work on. Parts I've had to replace include voltage regulator, rear brake light switch, donut, battery, tires & tubes, rear main seal (my own doing after over heating it), and I upgraded the ignition with a PowerArc.
Keep in mind Urals of this era are closer to 1950s and 1960s technology. If you are okay with old technology and the simplicity that goes along with them you will really enjoy it. A well sorted 650 is an absolute joy to drive.
As Eric N mentioned parts are available from Terry Crawford and eBay. The Russian Garage is a reputable online source for things you cannot find in the states but shipping can take some time. Heindle Engineering in Ohio and Holopaw Ural in Florida have alse helped me out as well with parts and service.
I assume you know but rigs of this era are not well suited for interstate cruising.
Best of luck and come on back with questions if you pull the trigger. Lots of knowledgeable folks here who are always willing to help.
Re: 1996 Deco Classic
Posted: Tue Jul 07, 2020 8:57 am
Great advice here guys on the old bikes. Well covered for him!
The 12 amp alternator and type 1 ignition were the weak points I disliked most. The 35 amp grenade alternator was an improvement over the 12 amp as they did a better job at least until they destroyed your motors front gear train. The type 1 ignition on my own 1995 Ural never worked from new. I installed a points distributor and a Harley coil made for points and called it good. The 35 amp grenade alternator I installed never gave me issue, but a big part of that is that I set it up by measuring actual gear lash and not doing it "by ear" as the resident bubba techs would have you do back then. My opinion was that the 35 amp alternator suffered from bad mechanics more than it did from any inherent design issues. Several owners I knew then who installed them properly never had issues either. Its been my experience that anything set up "by ear" is gonna fail sooner than later. Math done by actual measurements is a better way to do it. Musicians can set things up by ear. Mechanics, not so much.