Gear Up Newbie Questions

Newbies, introduce yourself here. Are you thinking about getting one and have questions? Ask your basic questions here. Please post any tech questions in "The Order of The Greasy Wrench" section.
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Here's the place for those who are newb or thinking about buying a Ural or Dnepr to introduce themselves ask those typical "newbie" questions. Try using the "Search" link at the top of the page to see if your question may have been asked before. Please post any tech questions in "The Order of the Greasy Wrench" section.
Ghengiz
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Gear Up Newbie Questions

Post by Ghengiz » Wed Nov 06, 2019 7:17 am

Hi Everybody!

Just got a 2019 Gear Up olive glossy (M70 code but w=with lever forks!?). Some questions:

1. When re-torquing cylinder head do you loosen head bolts then torque or just torque without loosing? I saw a video from Heindl where they just tightened and was wondering if this is common practice.
2. Re engine oil, I know Motul 4T is recommended and is JASO rated but since the transmission and engine oil are separate can you just run non-JASO synthetic and is this common practice? The manual recommends running 5w-40 in winter, anyone use Rotella T-6?
3. What is the best power takeoff point for handlebar mounting accessories? Assuming it would be from the headlight housing?

Thanks and looking forward to participating in the Ural community!
2019 Gear Uo
2012 Kawasaki Concours C14 (still own)
1995 Honda ST1100A
1979 Honda CB750K

WEGUNTER
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Re: Gear Up Newbie Questions

Post by WEGUNTER » Wed Nov 06, 2019 8:36 am

Different opinions on head torque. I go with the just torque without loosening crowd. just a question but how many km's do you have on the bike? Don't start screwing with it prematurely. In other words if it is not broken don't fix it. Just make sure all of your nuts an bolts are tight and do not go crazy with the torque wrench.

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Re: Gear Up Newbie Questions

Post by jeffsaline » Wed Nov 06, 2019 10:10 am

I'm with the loosen 1/4 turn and retorque crowd. Do them one at a time.

Best,

Jeff
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Lokiboy
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Re: Gear Up Newbie Questions

Post by Lokiboy » Wed Nov 06, 2019 10:39 am

Congrats on your new rig and welcome.

With-that-said, why are you contemplating re-torquing the heads? Leave them alone until you need to do cylinder work. If you do feel the need to look for problems, then set your wrench at 30 ft lbs and torque ‘em. If any are loose then loosen all the bolts and re-torque to 30 (Factory sets around 40 but what you don’t want to do is pull the stud out thus the lower number. 30 worked for the pre-2019, should be safe for the 2019s also).
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Lofty
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Re: Gear Up Newbie Questions

Post by Lofty » Wed Nov 06, 2019 12:07 pm

Welcome to the forum, and to Ural ownership.
Ghengiz wrote:
Wed Nov 06, 2019 7:17 am
Re engine oil, I know Motul 4T is recommended and is JASO rated but since the transmission and engine oil are separate can you just run non-JASO synthetic and is this common practice? The manual recommends running 5w-40 in winter, anyone use Rotella T-6?

What is the best power takeoff point for handlebar mounting accessories? Assuming it would be from the headlight housing?
Because the Ural uses a separate dry clutch, modern engine oil that does not have a JASO-MA or -MA2 rating can be used in the engine. Know that discussions regarding oil choices can sometimes be spirited, to put it politely. :wink: Personally, I use Mobil 1 20W-50 synthetic motorcycle oil, and Rotella T6 5W-40 synthetic oil, in accordance with the direction in the Owner's Manual. It specifies the appropriate weight of oil to use according to prevailing temperature trends. Both brands have JASO-MA certifications, although the latter is oftentimes positioned with diesel oils.

I've powered my Garmin Zumo GPS via a Y-adapter connection to the headlight's city light wiring. It's described here: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=22513&p=711057&hil ... ht#p711057
Inventory:
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1952 Columbia RX-5 ('87, NOS)

RC20
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Re: Gear Up Newbie Questions

Post by RC20 » Wed Nov 06, 2019 1:45 pm

Welcome, it helps a lot if you list your location.

Cylinder Bolts a check to be sure the Cylinder bolt are tight and as noted, unless something loose , they are fine.

While I have the torque wrench and would use it, if you have a feel for bolts and tight that is fine for a head bolts and internal engine bolts.

Oil is a much iffy and disagreed on subject.

My take is that Synthetic is the way to go. The Motul they use now is standard oil, good quality but nothing Ural special. In early years I ran my cycles on those kinds of oils (Penzoil, Caskrol ) and did fine.

A Ural is a different creature and has limits, so anything you can do to help out is a plus longevity wise. Heat is one major issue. You will note the manual says 70 mph max and then rest for (15 minutes) every two hours. That means you are on the iffy side of metallurgy and strain limits.

You are asking a 750cc engine at 50 hp (more or less they think) to push a 700 lb + steady load. That is unlike any other cycle.

Two answers to that. One, for just hotter areas is a diesel rate oil like Delo 400 which is almost as good as synthesis in the high temp area. Or synthetic oil (and take your choice, I go with Mobil as its readily available). - nice thing about syhtic is it will always give you easier spin than any standard oil at lower temps.

All you have to do is change the sticker! (grin)
PB060283.JPG
If you live in lower temps, then its an oil change or synthetic. For my use once I got her home from the lower 48 I put in Mobile 10-40 in the engine, 20W-40 Twin in the Trany and Mobile Gear in the Final Drive (FD)

I am going to try the Redline next summer in the Trany, mine is ok but not as smooth as I would like, it may or may not help.

I plan on some winter running and I need to fire it up regulatory, ergo the 10W Mobile as a split. I don't have high temps normally to worry about (80 max) so I can balance the two out (been down to 15 degrees so far and the 10W lets it spin and fire fine)

I would go with the 10W or a good Synthetic like it in Norther Tier states and if I was no so cold like West coast and rest like Nevada, Idaho etc, the 20W.

If you have a garage that an change the situation and parts of Nevada and Idaho while hotter than blaze in the Summer do get as cold as AK in the winter, so its very where you are and what your situation is for storage and use that should drive it.
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Ghengiz
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Re: Gear Up Newbie Questions

Post by Ghengiz » Wed Nov 06, 2019 7:57 pm

WEGUNTER wrote:
Wed Nov 06, 2019 8:36 am
Different opinions on head torque. I go with the just torque without loosening crowd. just a question but how many km's do you have on the bike? Don't start screwing with it prematurely. In other words if it is not broken don't fix it. Just make sure all of your nuts an bolts are tight and do not go crazy with the torque wrench.
Haven't picked her up yet, just doing homework...thanks for the response!
2019 Gear Uo
2012 Kawasaki Concours C14 (still own)
1995 Honda ST1100A
1979 Honda CB750K

Ghengiz
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Re: Gear Up Newbie Questions

Post by Ghengiz » Wed Nov 06, 2019 7:59 pm

Lokiboy wrote:
Wed Nov 06, 2019 10:39 am
Congrats on your new rig and welcome.

With-that-said, why are you contemplating re-torquing the heads? Leave them alone until you need to do cylinder work. If you do feel the need to look for problems, then set your wrench at 30 ft lbs and torque ‘em. If any are loose then loosen all the bolts and re-torque to 30 (Factory sets around 40 but what you don’t want to do is pull the stud out thus the lower number. 30 worked for the pre-2019, should be safe for the 2019s also).
The reason is because the service manual calls for a head re-torque and valve adjustment at 300 miles...
2019 Gear Uo
2012 Kawasaki Concours C14 (still own)
1995 Honda ST1100A
1979 Honda CB750K

Ghengiz
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Re: Gear Up Newbie Questions

Post by Ghengiz » Wed Nov 06, 2019 8:00 pm

Lofty wrote:
Wed Nov 06, 2019 12:07 pm
Welcome to the forum, and to Ural ownership.
Ghengiz wrote:
Wed Nov 06, 2019 7:17 am
Re engine oil, I know Motul 4T is recommended and is JASO rated but since the transmission and engine oil are separate can you just run non-JASO synthetic and is this common practice? The manual recommends running 5w-40 in winter, anyone use Rotella T-6?

What is the best power takeoff point for handlebar mounting accessories? Assuming it would be from the headlight housing?
Because the Ural uses a separate dry clutch, modern engine oil that does not have a JASO-MA or -MA2 rating can be used in the engine. Know that discussions regarding oil choices can sometimes be spirited, to put it politely. :wink: Personally, I use Mobil 1 20W-50 synthetic motorcycle oil, and Rotella T6 5W-40 synthetic oil, in accordance with the direction in the Owner's Manual. It specifies the appropriate weight of oil to use according to prevailing temperature trends. Both brands have JASO-MA certifications, although the latter is oftentimes positioned with diesel oils.

I've powered my Garmin Zumo GPS via a Y-adapter connection to the headlight's city light wiring. It's described here: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=22513&p=711057&hil ... ht#p711057
Excellent, thank you!
2019 Gear Uo
2012 Kawasaki Concours C14 (still own)
1995 Honda ST1100A
1979 Honda CB750K

Ghengiz
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Re: Gear Up Newbie Questions

Post by Ghengiz » Wed Nov 06, 2019 8:03 pm

RC20 wrote:
Wed Nov 06, 2019 1:45 pm
Welcome, it helps a lot if you list your location.

Cylinder Bolts a check to be sure the Cylinder bolt are tight and as noted, unless something loose , they are fine.

While I have the torque wrench and would use it, if you have a feel for bolts and tight that is fine for a head bolts and internal engine bolts.

Oil is a much iffy and disagreed on subject.

My take is that Synthetic is the way to go. The Motul they use now is standard oil, good quality but nothing Ural special. In early years I ran my cycles on those kinds of oils (Penzoil, Caskrol ) and did fine.

A Ural is a different creature and has limits, so anything you can do to help out is a plus longevity wise. Heat is one major issue. You will note the manual says 70 mph max and then rest for (15 minutes) every two hours. That means you are on the iffy side of metallurgy and strain limits.

You are asking a 750cc engine at 50 hp (more or less they think) to push a 700 lb + steady load. That is unlike any other cycle.

Two answers to that. One, for just hotter areas is a diesel rate oil like Delo 400 which is almost as good as synthesis in the high temp area. Or synthetic oil (and take your choice, I go with Mobil as its readily available). - nice thing about syhtic is it will always give you easier spin than any standard oil at lower temps.

All you have to do is change the sticker! (grin)

PB060283.JPG

If you live in lower temps, then its an oil change or synthetic. For my use once I got her home from the lower 48 I put in Mobile 10-40 in the engine, 20W-40 Twin in the Trany and Mobile Gear in the Final Drive (FD)

I am going to try the Redline next summer in the Trany, mine is ok but not as smooth as I would like, it may or may not help.

I plan on some winter running and I need to fire it up regulatory, ergo the 10W Mobile as a split. I don't have high temps normally to worry about (80 max) so I can balance the two out (been down to 15 degrees so far and the 10W lets it spin and fire fine)

I would go with the 10W or a good Synthetic like it in Norther Tier states and if I was no so cold like West coast and rest like Nevada, Idaho etc, the 20W.

If you have a garage that an change the situation and parts of Nevada and Idaho while hotter than blaze in the Summer do get as cold as AK in the winter, so its very where you are and what your situation is for storage and use that should drive it.
Thank you, very helpful.
2019 Gear Uo
2012 Kawasaki Concours C14 (still own)
1995 Honda ST1100A
1979 Honda CB750K

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Re: Gear Up Newbie Questions

Post by WEGUNTER » Thu Nov 07, 2019 8:44 am

Understand now. Urals tend to have a long teething process. Just make sure everything stays snug. Pay particular attention to spokes and final drive nuts. Dealer initial set up is critical.

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Happytrails
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Re: Gear Up Newbie Questions

Post by Happytrails » Thu Nov 07, 2019 8:55 am

Welcome to forums :)

Guess i need to buy a spoke wrench.
-JR

2018 Ural GearUp, Urban Camo
1991 Honda Goldwing SE

"riding is good therapy"

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Lofty
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Re: Gear Up Newbie Questions

Post by Lofty » Thu Nov 07, 2019 11:59 am

Happytrails wrote:
Thu Nov 07, 2019 8:55 am
Guess i need to buy a spoke wrench.
One was included in the Ural factory tool roll, but it was too small for the spokes. :? Fortunately, I found the correct size for the Gear Up in the spoke wrench kit that I purchased at Cycle Gear.

https://www.cyclegear.com/accessories/s ... wrench-kit
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Re: Gear Up Newbie Questions

Post by Happytrails » Thu Nov 07, 2019 1:03 pm

Thanks Lofty :)
-JR

2018 Ural GearUp, Urban Camo
1991 Honda Goldwing SE

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Re: Gear Up Newbie Questions

Post by Mr Wazzock » Thu Nov 07, 2019 1:13 pm

Ghengiz wrote:
Wed Nov 06, 2019 7:17 am
1. When re-torquing cylinder head do you loosen head bolts then torque or just torque without loosing? I saw a video from Heindl where they just tightened and was wondering if this is common practice.
Always was with me and what I'd seen in books. Never heard of loosening first until I came onto this forum.
Mike H
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(aka Oranzhevaya Opasnost, "The Orange Peril")

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