Water transfer decals ...

The "Pimp my Ride" section for Soviet bloc bikes. Everybody seems to have their own custom add-ons, modifications & accessories. Share your tips and post pictures of them here.
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Lmo
Hero of the Soviet Union - 2019
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Water transfer decals ...

Post by Lmo » Sun Feb 17, 2019 9:41 pm

just like we had with our model airplane kits.

Except you print them at home on your home printer. You have to do the artwork, trim, etc. but here's the base stock to start from:

Kodiak Supplies A4 waterslide decal stock
Lew Morris
Dnepr w/ '06 Ural Drive Train
C5 Power Arc
125/42 jets
Drilled slides/
.030" shims

1973 BMW R75/5 (original owner)
1947 HD FL (long gone, forever regretful)

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Tomcatfixer
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Re: Water transfer decals ...

Post by Tomcatfixer » Sun Feb 17, 2019 9:45 pm

I wonder how resistant home printer ink is to ultraviolet light? I would hate to go to all the trouble to print, cut, apply, and clear coat an image, only to have it fade from sun exposure.

EDIT - spellin'
Last edited by Tomcatfixer on Tue Feb 19, 2019 11:15 am, edited 1 time in total.
- Chad

Virginia Beach + Gordonsville, Virginia, USA

Current rides:
2015 Ural cT "Mobile Chernobyl", 2001 Ural Patrol "The Patrol", 1999 Ural Tourist "The RPOC", 1994 Honda VFR750F

Previous rides:
2007 Honda VTR1000 FireStorm (Super Hawk in U.S.)
2001 Buell Blast! - - - - - - - 2005 Yamaha FJR1300
1993 Honda CBR600F2 - -1984 Yamaha FJ1100
Two different 1986 Yamaha FZX700S Fazers

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bratmanxj
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Re: Water transfer decals ...

Post by bratmanxj » Mon Feb 18, 2019 10:07 am

I use to do that with model trains when I was a kid. Back then you had to use a laser printer and I could make my own lettering. Not sure how it would hold up out in the weather though.
1999 Yamaha Royal Star Venture
2007 Ural Tourist

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S 854
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Re: Water transfer decals ...

Post by S 854 » Mon Feb 18, 2019 10:16 am

These sure would have made Frank Abignale Jr’s life a lot less complicated...😎

(Raise yer hand if you didn’t have to google Frank Abignale Jr.)
'07 Arctic: The Russian Raucous Ship

Things turn out best for the people who make the best of the way things turn out...

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Speedbump
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Re: Water transfer decals ...

Post by Speedbump » Mon Feb 18, 2019 10:54 am

S 854 wrote:
Mon Feb 18, 2019 10:16 am
These sure would have made Frank Abignale Jr’s life a lot less complicated...😎

(Raise yer hand if you didn’t have to google Frank Abignale Jr.)
:headbang:
Glen³
2015 Retro.


Previous rides:
1977 GS550
1979 XS750

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Mr Wazzock
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Re: Water transfer decals ...

Post by Mr Wazzock » Mon Feb 18, 2019 3:30 pm

Nope :(

But I am nevertheless more enlightened
Mike H
2016 Ural cT, in glorious terracotta
(aka Oranzhevaya Opasnost, "The Orange Peril")

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Snakeoil
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Re: Water transfer decals ...

Post by Snakeoil » Tue Feb 19, 2019 11:02 am

A note on printed decals, whether printed on water slide or Mylar. The ink is not very durable and barely stuck to the surface to which it is printed. When you clear over the decal, you have protected it from damage from above, but the adhesion issue is still there. So, if you need to mask over the decal for additional paint work after it has been cleared, be aware that it is very possible that when you remove the tape, the letters, along with the clear over them will have a very good chance of staying with the tape, leaving just the base (Mylar or waterslide) material on the part. I have experienced this personally. It's a very depressing moment, trust me.
Regards,
Rob
Proud member of the Peanut Gallery
2000 Ural Tourist
40 Pilots, 122 Mains
Before you say something stupid, always ask yourself, "What would Harpo say?".

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Lmo
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Re: Water transfer decals ...

Post by Lmo » Thu Feb 21, 2019 10:13 pm

Never mind. :gahhh: Guess I'll stick with shelf paper and X-acto blades.
Lew Morris
Dnepr w/ '06 Ural Drive Train
C5 Power Arc
125/42 jets
Drilled slides/
.030" shims

1973 BMW R75/5 (original owner)
1947 HD FL (long gone, forever regretful)

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INSUBORDINATOR
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Re: Water transfer decals ...

Post by INSUBORDINATOR » Fri Feb 22, 2019 2:41 pm

Back in the day, Original Brit decals from the 1950's were adhered to the paper FACE DOWN. This meant you had to fist trace the decal area, the transfer the outline & PAINT SPAR VARNISH in the area where the decal goes. after giving the varnish some time to get Tacky, the moistened decal was slid onto the varnish - air & water bubbles gently messaged out with fingers or soft cardboard squeegee. & voil'a the face of the decal smiled up at you.
after it dried a coat of clear varnish was applied to the surface.
A very Delicate operation. I got good at it & did a few for people. Then they started making FACE OUT reproductions. But still good to varnish over.
The new Gum back "decals" are best put on over a surface gently misted with a spritzer, so they can be moved slightly before squeegeeing the air & water out. I have found that water-base Poly Gloss Varnish painted over them helps preserve them. Can even add a bit of brown acrylic to the mix to make them look vintage.
Current Motorcycles: 02 Ural Tourist, 2010 modified Royal Enfield G5 Deluxe.

"Be who you are & say what you feel. Those that matter won't mind, those that mind - don't matter."

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