Rear brake pedal move?

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Lmo
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Re: Rear brake pedal move?

Post by Lmo » Thu Feb 16, 2017 9:33 pm

Here's the part numnber: 46 51 4 034 260; Right side, 140mm ( the left is 90mm ); $38.36n new. But they're on Ebay all the time.

First used on the R50 in 1955, last used on the R100 series in 1984. Ref> http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/ ... 0034%20260

MAXBMW.com
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Re: Rear brake pedal move?

Post by Mr Wazzock » Thu Feb 16, 2017 10:43 pm

Snakeoil wrote: By the way, when I got my bike, it had a piece of box section welded to the pad to make it higher. The result was my foot rested on the pedal if I went from a toe rest to a mid-foot rest. Did not like that.
Yep I noticed ball of foot is pretty much touching the pedal rubber in the 'mid' position.

When I was at Ural NE, I got on a brand new bike with rear disc. I was surprised to find that you still have to do the ballerina move to step on the rear brake. Surprised by that.
Oh yes still a long travel.

Of course it should tighten up as the brakes bed in.
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Re: Rear brake pedal move?

Post by silverdog » Thu Feb 16, 2017 11:20 pm

Lmo wrote:Here's the part numnber: 46 51 4 034 260; Right side, 140mm ( the left is 90mm ); $38.36n new. But they're on Ebay all the time.

First used on the R50 in 1955, last used on the R100 series in 1984. Ref> http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/ ... 0034%20260

MAXBMW.com
Thanks..

Any chance you have a pic of the BMW foot peg in place?
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Re: RE: Re: Rear brake pedal move?

Post by Emoore » Fri Feb 17, 2017 7:00 am

Thanks..

Any chance you have a pic of the BMW foot peg in place?[/quote]

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Re: Rear brake pedal move?

Post by sean0262 » Fri Feb 17, 2017 10:28 am

There are so many ideas and options out there for us. However one thing is certain Ural got it wrong! I don't know if it was a direct copy of the German design or if somehow those plans were left out of the agreement between Germany and the Soviets. I just can't see Germans designing such a s#!ty stopping mechanism. As for the new 2014 and up hydro disc brakes, It's about freaken time. However Ural still has it wrong. If Ural had half a sense they would hire GHGoodwin to be a design engineer for them. He has what I believe to be the most brilliant idea when it comes to the sidecar brake system. By interconnecting the front disc and sidecar disc through a proportioning valve. With the right tuning this could eliminate so many problems sidecarist face with there rigs. And I don't just mean Urals. All sidecar rigs could benefit from this revolutionary idea. I'm hoping he perfects this and offers kit's or plans for his stellar design work because when I get a new rig in the near future, I will be in line for this mod.
As for my work on the 2013 and older. I've worked on different lengths of levers and some work really well and other designs didn't. Notably the strait rod. Works wonderfully. It will lock up you rear wheel the moment you press the brake pedal. The only problem is that it will do the same when you him a bump. And that is when I found myself sitting on my fuel tank feeling like I just took a line-drive in the groin. So I know that the braking force is being lost through all the linkage. However may attorney has advised me to leave the linkage alone. Now on my rig that's a different story. She stops on a dime! With minimal length of deflection. My brake pedal only needs to be pushed down between 1/2" to 3/4" to stop my rig.
Brake Linkage Mod.jpg

What I can modify for my customer/friends is footpegs and rear brake pedals now. What I do is simply extend the right footpeg out 2" to get your foot out from under the carburetor then I extend the rear brake pedal forward 2" and out to the right to also get it out from under the carburetor. This also adds quite a bit more stopping force because of the extra leverage of the pedal and the more natural placement of your foot and ankle. Your comfort also goes up do to the more natural placement of foot and ankle. And no more Ballerina toe braking!!!! This is a simple mod that any of you can do that weld. That's why I only charge $125. for both for those who are unable to weld and do not have the right material. Just remember to us 4130 plate steel on the brake pedal (NOT MILD STEEL) and use a Grade 5 bolt shank to do your footpeg. The reason I don't use Grade 8 is because I would rather your foot peg bend and flex slightly than snap off and causing you harm to your ankle. That's why we don't use Grade 8 strength bolts in Aviation. We use AN hardware that is similar in Grade 5 in that it will bend before it would snap. By no means is Grade 5 even close to AN. So don't go bolting your home build aircrafts wings on with Grade 5...LoL As you can see I also sanded off the 1/4" tall ridges that circled the foot pegs. I did this because my foot would always end up teetering on the ridges and causing ankle and foot discomfort on my longer road trips.
2017-01-29 23.08.55.jpg
I've found that with the Ural there is not one magic bullet that fixes it's short comings. It's all those little mods that brings it all together and makes it a sweet ride. For me, with my brake linkage mod, my footpeg and brake pedal mod, my seat spring mod, my R3w Steering Damper kit, my carb retuning, glass pack mufflers, K&N brand air cleaner, Tach kit and Heidenau K28 tires has brought my Ural to a whole new lever of ride ability. But like always new ideas keep coming that make us feel like little kids again stacking Legos or hammering away at pieces of wood and steel in Dads garage. Who know that one day we would still be doing this??
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Hey Folks, I'm looking for a solo Ural motorcycle. Any machine will do. from a Wolf, Solo or just a rig without it's sidecar. drop me a PM
Sean's R3W Steering Damper Kits for sale http://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums/view ... 67#p563367
R3W Steering Damper Reviews viewtopic.php?f=11&t=44242

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Lmo
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Re: Rear brake pedal move?

Post by Lmo » Fri Feb 17, 2017 11:23 am

Any chance you have a pic of the BMW foot peg in place?
Nope. Just measure from the center of the mounting bolt boss to the center of the footpeg, and compare it to what's on your Ural.

The left BMW peg is 90mm [3.5"]

The right BMW peg (the one you want) is 140mm [5.5']

There's one on Ebay this morning; Buy-It-Now $14.95

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ORIGINAL-RIGHT- ... lz&vxp=mtr
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Re: Rear brake pedal move?

Post by silverdog » Fri Feb 17, 2017 2:18 pm

Thanks lmo
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Re: Rear brake pedal move?

Post by thecrumb » Thu Feb 23, 2017 7:10 pm

FYI I ordered one of the BMW pegs. I don't think this will work with my 2012.

a) the splines where it attaches to the frame don't match with the ural grooves
b) it hits the brake switch bracket in the rear - I don't see how I could adjust/rotate that out of the way

I will try to take a pic over the weekend.

If anyone wants this one I'll ship it to you for what I paid for it - $15 or will bring to CRAP.

Jim
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Re: Rear brake pedal move?

Post by Snakeoil » Thu Feb 23, 2017 7:59 pm

I'll take it if you don't want it. PM me with how you want me to pay you.

Email sent.
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Rob
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Re: Rear brake pedal move?

Post by Snakeoil » Fri Mar 03, 2017 3:18 pm

Jim sent the Beemer right footpeg to me and it arrived today. I had forgotten that they are chromed. Did not bother to paint it. Thought I'd try it for fit first.

Pulled the Ural peg off and compared the two. Here's some pics. BMW peg is chrome, Ural is Black.

Here they are side by side. You can see that the BMW peg puts your foot further aft, making the brake pedal further forward relative to the peg and your foot on the peg. You can also see that the Ural peg has an offset to the right. BMW peg foot area is actually longer than Ural so makes up for some of the difference. I will use a spacer on the BMW peg to make up for some of the offset as well as accomodate another difference (see below). I thought about heating and bending an offset into the BMW peg, but that would remove some of the rearward offset so the spacer will suffice unless I find I need to adjust it.
20170303_125155.jpg
Here are the two splined faces that mate to splines on the frame, position the pegs on the frame and keep them where you set them with the bolting tight. As you can see the BMW peg spline pitch is much finer than the Ural. To avoid damaging the mating spline on the frame or the BMW peg, I will use an annealed 1/4" aluminum spacer between the peg and the frame. It will do two things. First, it will move the peg out 1/4" to make up for some of the offset lost and will allow the two different splines to bite into the aluminum spacer and make for a more secure mount from a position POV.
20170303_125426.jpg
Here is the spacer. I simply heated it with a propane torch and quenched it to take the hardness out of it. This will allow the spline teeth to better bite into the aluminum when the nut is tightened.
20170303_132030.jpg
Here is the peg installed on the frame. Note the relative position change between the brake pedal (most rearward pedal on my modified pedal) and the peg. It truly feels right and pretty much eliminates the ballerina effect. Also moves my shin back and away from the intake snorkle.
20170303_132748.jpg
Here is a shot showing the peg mounted to the frame and the aluminum spacer. If you look closely you can see where the coarse Ural spline teeth have bitten into the aluminum.
20170303_132822.jpg
Lastly, here is a shot from directly overhead, showing that rearward offset that the right BMW peg has relative to the left Ural peg.
20170303_132951.jpg
Sitting on the bike, I do not notice an actual difference in foot position, left to right. Only noticeable change is if I put my right toes on the peg, my calf hits the rear sidecar strut, but not with any pressure. I don't see it as a problem, but only time in the saddle will tell.

After I put some miles on the bike with the new peg, I'll determine if this is a permanent mod. If so, I'll probably remove the peg and the aluminum spacer. With the spacer removed, I can then file the witness marks made by the two different splines deeper into the aluminum with a 3-cornered file to allow for more positively mating spline surfaces. If I don't do this, I suspect that with time, the peg will chew into the aluminum and the bolt tension will slack off as the peg and frame splines go deeper into the aluminum.

So, thanks to Jim for my $15 footpeg. I even left the peg rubber that was on it there since it really is not visible unless you look for it.
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Re: Rear brake pedal move?

Post by Snakeoil » Wed Apr 05, 2017 5:34 pm

Thought I'd post an update on my BMW right footpeg mod. Today, I took the bike out to see if turning the front drum eliminated the high speed shudder/chatter when I first applied the front brake. Happy to report that it did. It also resulted in much better stopping power (adjusted the pads too, so that helped) and boy did it pull to the left with just the front brake applied at speed. So, once I proved out the front brake improvement, I went back to using front and rear brakes to stop.

I had completely forgotten that I put that Beemer peg on the bike a month ago. It was not until I had put the bike back into the garage that I realized the peg was on the bike. I noticed absolutely no difference in braking, but also did not notice the ballerina effect. So, I hopped back on the bike and never looked down. I stepped on the brake and it was perfect. Looked down and I was on the stock pedal, not the one further forward that I'd welded on last year.

Although I should probably put a little bit more saddle time in before I draw a firm conclusion, but for now it would appear that the BMW foot peg does not alter riding comfort, provides a bit more toe room relative to the carb/cylinder and pretty much eliminates the ballerina effect.

ANYBODY AT URAL IN IRBIT READING THIS??!!! HOW ABOUT CHANGING YOUR FOOT PEG ON THE RIGHT TO BE THE SAME LENGTH AS THE BMW PEG??!!
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Re: Rear brake pedal move?

Post by sKiZo » Thu Nov 21, 2019 7:01 pm

Older post I know, but I went thru a lot of the same issues here and ended up following the advice of a couple of the board sages.

Image

Pedal's moved out from under the jug and required travel reduced, both of which improve drastically my ability to work the brakes with a gamey ankle. The heel rest is especially nice - kind of like a foot board between that and the stock peg. Stretched that as far as I could, which also required shortening the connection rod to the sidecar brake, but well worth the effort.

Also stretched the brake arm on the drum some which decreased travel at the pedal quite a bit but still gives enough play so I don't lock em up hitting any bumps.

Image

PS - I do like the idea of proportional brakes, front and side ... sounds like it'd be a major improvement. A lot of the newer road bikes have that front and rear and doesn't seem like it'd be that difficult to steal ... er ... re-purpose the parts required, assUming the "brain" allowed you to mod the valve controls to match the Ural's characteristics.
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Handicap mods include Raceway foot box, tank shifter w/reverse, and DIY rear brake pedal mods.

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Re: Rear brake pedal move?

Post by Snakeoil » Thu Nov 21, 2019 9:16 pm

Don't think I ever cut the splines in my alum spacer. Still solid as a rock.
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Rob
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Re: Rear brake pedal move?

Post by RC20 » Tue Nov 26, 2019 2:30 pm

My take is start with simple and only go complex if needed.

Cutting the foot peg rubber getting you an inch would be first.

Add depth to the rubber on the foot- peg next.

Keeping in mind its likely to be sold some day and there are issues with mods.

Agreed fully its the most awkward part of the Ural for ergonomics. I have always used the rear as the initial slow down and then fully coordinated front and rear for heavier braking. I only returned to using the rear with winter and the annoying reach to get to it.

I am going to give it a hard look and possibly add a wider bar on top of the brake lever rubber so that its easier to reach. Something that can be returned to OEM easily.

Worth a thought to heat and bend out and then keep a spare one on hand to replace if it has to be sold.
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Re: Rear brake pedal move?

Post by sKiZo » Thu Nov 28, 2019 10:31 pm

Sometimes it's the simple stuff too. Look back to the pics I posted, and you can see I also ground the flared ends on both peg covers flat to allow the foot to drift a bit without riding on the high spots. Much improved slop factor when it comes to foot placement.

Don't forget the pedal rubber. There's thicker pads you can get to adjust the amount of foot rotation required, or you can remove the stock cover and just glue a piece of rough sandpaper to the pedal surface. You can also move the pedal's spline to rotate the entire pedal if needed. Took a couple or three tries to get mine right after doing the mods, but trouble free since.
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Handicap mods include Raceway foot box, tank shifter w/reverse, and DIY rear brake pedal mods.

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