Rotopax fuel cans mounted ... prices added, video added

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Magnus
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Re: Rotopax fuel cans mounted ... prices added, video added

Post by Magnus » Mon May 19, 2014 11:16 pm

Tin Man, I'm a fan of your mounting job of the Rotopax. The pictures show that you did an awesome job of targeting the mounting plates as they look pretty much even on both sides.
If you don't mind, could you share your process for targeting the mountings. I'm looking at duplicating your efforts with minimal drilling of extra holes. Thanks in advance.
Magnus rider of Grusha
2011 Gear UP
Power Arc
HI-PRO Crankcase Vapor Recovery System
30mm Flat Slide High Performance Carburetors
Country Air Filter
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and a whole lot of love

hank the uralnaut
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Re: Rotopax fuel cans mounted ... prices added, video added

Post by hank the uralnaut » Thu May 22, 2014 2:42 pm

they seem good but only thing I don t like about them is the color
2005 Ural Troyka, local runner 7300km
2008 White Ural Patrol, back up 39,200km
2012 Red Ural Tourist, 10300km (project dbf)
2014 Ural "'T" EFI, touring,10200km
2015 Indian Chief Vintage
Harmony, California

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Tin Man
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Re: Rotopax fuel cans mounted ... prices added, video added

Post by Tin Man » Sat May 24, 2014 12:34 am

Magnus wrote:Tin Man, I'm a fan of your mounting job of the Rotopax. The pictures show that you did an awesome job of targeting the mounting plates as they look pretty much even on both sides.
If you don't mind, could you share your process for targeting the mountings. I'm looking at duplicating your efforts with minimal drilling of extra holes. Thanks in advance.
It did take some eye-ballin and a bunch of measuring to find that spot. Have a helper (if you can get one) and a make sure to bring along extra patience....a bit of background....the factory cans are inserted into their brackets by sliding up and down with the spare tire providing a level of theft deterrence ...the Rotopax cans are removed by sliding them sideways off of their mounting brackets. They can be removed with the spare tire still above them.....that is why I paid extra and got the locking "T" handles.....keep that info in your head while you do this job.
Because the right turn signal on the hack will be a limiting factor, I suggest you begin by installing the right side first. Having the right side correctly mounted and finished, and then installing the left side is gonna let you have a better chance of finishing with a symmetrical final (installed) product.
Decide what you want to use for your interior backing plates. You can see I went with plates much larger than the
RP mounting bracket. I precut them and had already found the general area where they would likely be mounted. I felt that, given their size, anywhere that the RP mounting plate needed to be, they would still provide ample support even if the RP bracket was not quite "centered" on them.

1) Assemble one of the RP cans on its mounting bracket but do not install the "T" handle.
2) Have your helper hold that entire unit up to the right sidewall of the trunk...here is where the eye-ballin comes in....
you step back and see if it is where you want it. Because I use the spare as a degree of theft protection, at this point I
closed and latched the trunk lid so the spare pushed down against the top of the cap. You can see in my posts that I
went a step further by making some collars that keeps anyone from unscrewing the caps while the spare keeps them from
lifting the collars off. If you copy that idea, go ahead and pre-make those collars and have them on the cans during
the initial installation. I didn't and it made for a whole lot more frettin than was needed.
My aim was for the spare to sit semi-snug against the collars without exerting too much pressure against the
can/bracket. I have a cordura spare tire cover which, should I find myself on a really bumpy road, acts as a
slight buffer between tire and collars ...the collars still won't lift off... but the tire ain't pounding directly on the
collar/cap/can/bracket. (I'm watching it for wear marks which I will most likely address by having a
leather patch sewn over the wear point should that become necessary... but I ain't seen any sign of it yet.)
3) Still holding the bracket in place, gently remove the can and set it aside
4) Mark the mounting holes............now the fun part.......go get your drill......
5) Drill one of the upper holes and mount the bracket to the sidewall with a bolt/nut...snug it down tight enough to
support an (empty) RP can.
6) Slide the RP can back onto the bracket and check your clearances. As the RP can is gently removed.....pay
special attention to clearances between the can and the aforementioned right signal light ......
Some minor adjustments can be made by moving the can/bracket around slightly with that one bolt still in place.
Hopefully you will have it very near where you want it at this point.
If everything checks out, drill the other holes... If you want, install bolts and remount the RP bracket/can....
....re-recheck those clearances.
7) If your happy with the setup, remove the RP can and the bolts.
8 ) Holding the RP bracket to the outside....and your interior backing plate material on the inside (of the trunk), mark
the backing plate for the mounting holes. Take the interior plate out and drill your holes. Now you can mount the entire
system to the hack trunk.....step back and admire your handiwork...remember, because of the right rear turn signal, you
must remove the "T" handle to dismount this can. It ain't a big deal, just the way it is.....
9) The left side is much easier...just like the before, have your helper hold the RP bracket/can against the left sidewall
of the trunk. You can step back and pretty much eyeball it into position. Again pay attention to its height in relation
to the spare tire.
10) Repeat the above procedure for marking/drilling/mounting.....this can should slide off of the bracket as designed,
with the "T" handle in place.

Sorry my response took so long....... :oops:

Hope that helps and good luck. :cheers:
Mike
2007 GearUp (Arctic #1)
130/45 jets, KTM rock solid mirrors, Delaware Dave's outstanding trunk lock, Mr. Cob's most excellent skid plate, Cycra Probend smashproof hand guards, Duro strong like bull 307's, RotoPax damn near bulletproof fuel cans, MKIII all but water proof air box and Dimples super duper magnetic drain plugs all around...oh yeah, and a manual fuel petcock.

.........if you see something that needs doing, just do it........

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Re: Rotopax fuel cans mounted ... prices added, video added

Post by Tin Man » Sat May 24, 2014 12:54 am

hank the uralnaut wrote:they seem good but only thing I don t like about them is the color
As I said before. A set of canvas covers (with drawstrings or Velcro closures.... because I'd be a-skeered that elastic would balloon out and blow off at speed....especially as it ages) will solve any issues that might cause the fashion police to pull ya over....... :wink:
Mike
2007 GearUp (Arctic #1)
130/45 jets, KTM rock solid mirrors, Delaware Dave's outstanding trunk lock, Mr. Cob's most excellent skid plate, Cycra Probend smashproof hand guards, Duro strong like bull 307's, RotoPax damn near bulletproof fuel cans, MKIII all but water proof air box and Dimples super duper magnetic drain plugs all around...oh yeah, and a manual fuel petcock.

.........if you see something that needs doing, just do it........

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Magnus
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Re: Rotopax fuel cans mounted ... prices added, video added

Post by Magnus » Sat May 24, 2014 7:13 pm

Tin Man, thanks for the reply and the directions for targeting and the inclusion of the lessons learned. I have the material on the way and getting ready to do the add. I'm planning a trip from Silverdale WA to Idaho Falls ID this summer and my planned route from Boise to Idaho Falls thru the National Forests will be right at tank=gas station distance. I'll let you know how the install goes. Thinking about adding the 40mm ammo box mod as well if there is room.
Magnus rider of Grusha
2011 Gear UP
Power Arc
HI-PRO Crankcase Vapor Recovery System
30mm Flat Slide High Performance Carburetors
Country Air Filter
LED light conversion with Truck Lite
and a whole lot of love

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Re: Rotopax fuel cans mounted ... prices added, video added

Post by Tin Man » Sat May 24, 2014 8:52 pm

Glad I could help...if you read my earlier posts, you will see that I changed the supplied spouts to the "water" spouts...... :wink:
And since you mentioned lessons learned.......and, as everyone should do prior to actually needing any piece of kit......go practice using them (pouring from the cans) before you leave. :cheers:
Mike
2007 GearUp (Arctic #1)
130/45 jets, KTM rock solid mirrors, Delaware Dave's outstanding trunk lock, Mr. Cob's most excellent skid plate, Cycra Probend smashproof hand guards, Duro strong like bull 307's, RotoPax damn near bulletproof fuel cans, MKIII all but water proof air box and Dimples super duper magnetic drain plugs all around...oh yeah, and a manual fuel petcock.

.........if you see something that needs doing, just do it........

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Re: Rotopax fuel cans mounted ... prices added, video added

Post by evilkevin » Thu Jul 17, 2014 4:16 pm

Tin Man, I am looking at getting the 1.75 can and they sell a backing plate for $5.50 that is 16 gauge. Do you think this is strong enough for the inside of the trunk? I see that you had used a street sign.
I talk a lot, so I've just learned to tune myself out.

2006 Patrol, 2015 Yamaha TW, 1989 Honda Transalp

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Re: Rotopax fuel cans mounted ... prices added, video added

Post by Tin Man » Thu Jul 17, 2014 6:13 pm

evilkevin wrote:Tin Man, I am looking at getting the 1.75 can and they sell a backing plate for $5.50 that is 16 gauge. Do you think this is strong enough for the inside of the trunk? I see that you had used a street sign.
Evilkevin, the issue was not the sturdiness of the supplied backing plate, it was the size. Given the relatively thin sidewall material of the trunk, I was not comfortable asking that metal to hold a full gas can using just that small backing plate. I wanted to distribute the load over as large an area as possible.....hence the homemade backing plates. Years ago I bought a bunch of bent signposts from a local town. These were the ones that had been damaged and no longer met the specifications to be reused as street sign posts.....along with them was a pile of damaged street signs. The signs are a very thick aluminum which I have found to be quite handy for various projects such as this. Strength and light weight is always a plus for me. You can check your city/county/state facilities to see if they will sell you this kinda stuff......but, given the way aluminum prices have risen, I would not hold out much hope of beating the recyclers to them.... :foilhead:
And be advised, this thick aluminum does not bend well. It will take a lot of punishment and can curve a bit, but don't expect to mold it around corners like the thinner stuff. :cheers:
Mike
2007 GearUp (Arctic #1)
130/45 jets, KTM rock solid mirrors, Delaware Dave's outstanding trunk lock, Mr. Cob's most excellent skid plate, Cycra Probend smashproof hand guards, Duro strong like bull 307's, RotoPax damn near bulletproof fuel cans, MKIII all but water proof air box and Dimples super duper magnetic drain plugs all around...oh yeah, and a manual fuel petcock.

.........if you see something that needs doing, just do it........

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Re: Rotopax fuel cans mounted ... prices added, video added

Post by evilkevin » Thu Jul 17, 2014 8:23 pm

Thank you for the reply.
I talk a lot, so I've just learned to tune myself out.

2006 Patrol, 2015 Yamaha TW, 1989 Honda Transalp

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Re: Rotopax fuel cans mounted ... prices added, video added

Post by Sit » Mon Aug 04, 2014 8:44 pm

I too have rotopax on my Patrol. I used the Roto backer plates on both sides of the car. The last time I had everything mounted up for a trip through the Oregon Outback Discovery Route, I had a 1.75 gal gas and a 1 gal gas mounted on the left side of the car and a 1.75 mounted to the right side. We did some rough riding. Beat the crap out of my mufflers, ripped one off of its mount on the cylinder and generally rode the bike as hard as needed to get down, up and through some crappy roads. The Rotopax did awesome. The side car wall suffered no damage even with the the nearly 3 gal of gas mounted up. Just make sure the mounts are good and tight. You do not want the cans bouncing around on the mount. I imagine that is what would cause problems. When it came time to use the gas in the cans, I did make sure to use the double stack first to get rid of that weight, but all was good at the end of the trip. Only issue I had was that the cans rubbed some of the rivets on the car to bare metal.

Also, I have discovered that you can double stack two 1.75 cans on the left side of the car with no problems. I just had to bend the guard over the driveshaft down about 1/8-1/4 inch so the second can could clear it. A good kick did the job....WWID
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Re: Rotopax fuel cans mounted ... prices added, video added

Post by n3303j » Sun Aug 10, 2014 2:23 am

I got a pair of the 1 gallon green ones before they disappeared.
My riding is paved and 2 gallon reserve sufficient.
Matter of fact I've given away more gallons to stranded autoists then I've poured in my rig.
They always smile when you rescue them.
Fuel.jpg
One thing to note; the container will chew up the paint on the vehicle due to constant vibration enroute. Between trapped dirt and a raised logo it's going to happen.

The automotive (also bike, off road) people have a transparent adhesive backed gloss or matte product that they apply to vehicle painted surfaces to prevent stone bruises.

I bought a couple of feet of this sheet stock from a shop that cuts these patterns. I installed it on the SC behind the RotoPax tanks. So far so good.
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Ron Cichowski

1998 Moto Guzzi V11 EV STOCK
1996/2014 Ural Sportsman.
Severely Upgraded, Modified and Remanufactured.
1977 Moto Guzzi 850 T3-FB ALMOST STOCK

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Re: Rotopax fuel cans mounted ... prices added, video added

Post by Tin Man » Sun Aug 10, 2014 2:51 am

n3303j wrote:I got a pair of the 1 gallon green ones before they disappeared.
My riding is paved and 2 gallon reserve sufficient.
Matter of fact I've given away more gallons to stranded autoists then I've poured in my rig.
They always smile when you rescue them.
Fuel.jpg
One thing to note; the container will chew up the paint on the vehicle due to constant vibration enroute. Between trapped dirt and a raised logo it's going to happen.

The automotive (also bike, off road) people have a transparent adhesive backed gloss or matte product that they apply to vehicle painted surfaces to prevent stone bruises.

I bought a couple of feet of this sheet stock from a shop that cuts these patterns. I installed it on the SC behind the RotoPax tanks. So far so good.


Good tip, thanks Ron. :cheers:
Mike
2007 GearUp (Arctic #1)
130/45 jets, KTM rock solid mirrors, Delaware Dave's outstanding trunk lock, Mr. Cob's most excellent skid plate, Cycra Probend smashproof hand guards, Duro strong like bull 307's, RotoPax damn near bulletproof fuel cans, MKIII all but water proof air box and Dimples super duper magnetic drain plugs all around...oh yeah, and a manual fuel petcock.

.........if you see something that needs doing, just do it........

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Re: Rotopax fuel cans mounted ... prices added, video added

Post by bio388 » Sun Aug 10, 2014 8:45 pm

I really like this setup. Between just the two cans that's at least another 80-100 miles down the road. Double up another pair on the SC step and you've got an extra full day's worth of gas. I love the design of them, and the size. I hate pouring from those large 5 Gallon jugs. It's never a pretty job. These make it look a little easier.

Would you recommend siphoning from storage to tank, versus pouring? More or less headaches in the end?

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Re: Rotopax fuel cans mounted ... prices added, video added

Post by n3303j » Sun Aug 10, 2014 9:01 pm

bio388 wrote:
Would you recommend siphoning from storage to tank, versus pouring? More or less headaches in the end?
Mine came with a flexible yellow spout with a vent path built in.
I can get the tip of the spout into the tank without fuel flow by bending the spout.
Then just tilt the tank and pour.
No muss, no fuss, no bother.
Ron Cichowski

1998 Moto Guzzi V11 EV STOCK
1996/2014 Ural Sportsman.
Severely Upgraded, Modified and Remanufactured.
1977 Moto Guzzi 850 T3-FB ALMOST STOCK

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Re: Rotopax fuel cans mounted ... prices added, video added

Post by Tin Man » Sun Aug 10, 2014 11:01 pm

n3303j wrote:
bio388 wrote:
Would you recommend siphoning from storage to tank, versus pouring? More or less headaches in the end?
Mine came with a flexible yellow spout with a vent path built in.
I can get the tip of the spout into the tank without fuel flow by bending the spout.
Then just tilt the tank and pour.
No muss, no fuss, no bother.

If they look like these.... :foilhead: .....they are now sold as the "water" spouts. Well, at least in the USA.. ... :sarcasm: ...everywhere else they are called fuel spouts. :sarcasm:
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Mike
2007 GearUp (Arctic #1)
130/45 jets, KTM rock solid mirrors, Delaware Dave's outstanding trunk lock, Mr. Cob's most excellent skid plate, Cycra Probend smashproof hand guards, Duro strong like bull 307's, RotoPax damn near bulletproof fuel cans, MKIII all but water proof air box and Dimples super duper magnetic drain plugs all around...oh yeah, and a manual fuel petcock.

.........if you see something that needs doing, just do it........

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