What did you do to your Ural today?

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Tomcatfixer
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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by Tomcatfixer » Fri Apr 10, 2020 5:35 am

That DOES sounds a bit more higer-pitched than you typically hear from one of these things, Mike.
- Chad

Gordonsville, Virginia, USA

Current rides:
2015 Ural cT "Mobile Chernobyl", 2001 Ural Patrol "Little Red Bear", 1999 Ural Tourist "The RPOC", Mid-Nineties Ural Tourist "The Heap", 1994 Honda VFR750F

Previous rides:
2007 Honda VTR1000 FireStorm (Super Hawk in U.S.)
2001 Buell Blast! - - - - - - - 2005 Yamaha FJR1300
1993 Honda CBR600F2 - -1984 Yamaha FJ1100
Two different 1986 Yamaha FZX700S Fazers

stagewex
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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by stagewex » Fri Apr 10, 2020 7:39 am

Tomcatfixer wrote:
Fri Apr 10, 2020 5:35 am
That DOES sounds a bit more higer-pitched than you typically hear from one of these things, Mike.

Yes and after listening to a few old videos that didn't have music and with my camera speaker over on that side of the bike it existed before. Just not as loud.

I'm going to go with it is the alternator bearings getting dried out. John has an extensive step-by-step that he and Marty did years ago re-lubing with Kryotex. See the link below.

https://sovietsteeds.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2421

I happen to have a spare alternator on the shelf that needed to be cleaned anyway so I might do that first. I don't have any kryotex or extra bearings right now. At the very least it will be easier to just drop that in and see if it makes a difference.

Here's that 2 minute video that ironically I had made for someone else here that heard strange noises from their engine. It's not really the engine, it's the "whirring sound" that did exist before but seems to be more pronounced now.

If John or Marty happen to glance at this post let me know what you think since you went thru this before. Difference for me is there is no leaking from the alternator (or anywhere else) which you mention in your posts and maybe is the reason you started your projects in the first place?

So "Ural Cold Start from Dec. 31, 2019" below, not now:
Stagewex

Current Herd all running amok:
2019 Honda CRF450L (Elec Start)
2008 Vespa 150S (Elec & Kick Start)
2007 Ural Patrol (2WD, Elec & Kick Start)
2006 Honda "Big Ruckus" PS250 (Elec Start)
1991 Honda XR250L (Kick Start Only) *NOT running amok, out for Bottom & Top-End Rebuild.
1986 Yamaha BW200ES (Elec & Kick Start)

List what you "have", keep the others in your precious memory bank.

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ReCycled
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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by ReCycled » Fri Apr 10, 2020 8:12 am

I didn't listen to the video but can attest to one more clue to suggest alternator bearings. You had other issues to deal with at the end of our last ride together but your bike had a strong smell of burning rubber. The only other time I noticed that smell was when Rich's failed a number of years ago.

Taking the alt off and separating it from the cush drive is the best way to set gear lash without removing the front cover anyway so you may as well do it to assess the bearing anyway.
David B.
'07 Ural Twourist

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chaos2
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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by chaos2 » Fri Apr 10, 2020 9:38 am

Almost sounds like the whine from the fuel pump on my K75S. I doubt if that's what's causing it on your bike though.
Past afflictions include limey motocars and bikes, R60/2, R65ls, & a Citroen.
Now a DB Haanjo and Canyon CF SL Endurace, '87 K75s,
and a rusty 2012 GU bought new
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jeffsaline
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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by jeffsaline » Fri Apr 10, 2020 9:42 am

A few months ago I changed the bearings in my 2010 Gear Up as a precautionary measure. I didn't have an issue but did have 22,000k's on the machine. When I got the first bearing out of the drive the inside of the space was covered in grease and had a burnt smell. I believe the drive got hot and the bearings were throwing grease. After I installed new bearings using drivers and mandrels I made for the procedure the rotation was smooth and quiet. I've since passed the tools to a guy that was also planning on doing this procedure. He supplied the grease and I made the tools. I recall I also cleaned/trued the drive coupling end of the shaft in my lathe as it was pretty rough.

I did also use the Krytox grease, GPL-205, to lube the new bearings before they were installed. My buddy got it off Amazon for about $43.00 for a 2 oz. tube, delivered. I gently removed the side shields and w@$#ed the factory applied lube from the bearings. Once clean and dry I applied a pearl of grease between each ball. After rotating the inner race while holding the outer race to make sure grease was contacting all around the races and bearings I popped the shields back on. Do read the cautions before handling the Krytox grease. Wear protective gloves and avoid contact with your person.

The bearings and seals we got from a local bearing supply house. Bearing callout is 6004-2RSR-C3, single row radial ball bearing and you need two each. We got NACHI 6004-2NSE and cost was $6.00 each. The seal was SKF 692305 and the counter guy matched it by size and not part number. Size is 25x35x7. Cost for the seal was $3.40.

Do make sure you mark the drive and front housing before you move the housing. I measured the play and got between 0.003" and 0.010" play depending on rotation of the engine. That suggests to me there is some runout on the gear. When reinstalling I matched the original scribe marks I made and again got the same variation in play. Too tight is a bad thing in this application.

Best,

Jeff
Jeff Saline
2010 Gear Up
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stagewex
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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by stagewex » Fri Apr 10, 2020 10:28 am

Jeff, yeah, that kinda follows what John & Marty did and the same scenario of the grease drying up and getting thrown off the bearings.
Damn, I have several tubes of the Kryotex sitting at work that I use on High-Heat repairs for theatrical moving lights. That is some expensive stuff.

I don't have bearing or any specialty tools to do this myself so I'm just going to throw the old alternator in after I clean it. Seems the easiest thing to do.

And David, yes I recall and remember that burning smell very well. It was my clutch giving up the ghost. New one is installed. Clutch is running and sounding (no sound) fine when I put my ear to it. The "whirr" is what seemed to have gotten a bit louder if you listen and compare the audio from yesterday to the second one from 4 months ago no doubt. The alternator swap will tell all and I'll get back with a report. Stay Safe & healthy everyone.


Ouch!
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Stagewex

Current Herd all running amok:
2019 Honda CRF450L (Elec Start)
2008 Vespa 150S (Elec & Kick Start)
2007 Ural Patrol (2WD, Elec & Kick Start)
2006 Honda "Big Ruckus" PS250 (Elec Start)
1991 Honda XR250L (Kick Start Only) *NOT running amok, out for Bottom & Top-End Rebuild.
1986 Yamaha BW200ES (Elec & Kick Start)

List what you "have", keep the others in your precious memory bank.

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Snakeoil
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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by Snakeoil » Fri Apr 10, 2020 11:27 am

Tomcatfixer wrote:
Fri Apr 10, 2020 5:35 am
That DOES sounds a bit more higer-pitched than you typically hear from one of these things, Mike.
I agree. And when a bearing starts making noise, it's too late. Not a grease job, it's bearing replacement job.

Another thing worth mentioning, is if your bike starts right up, without enricheners when it is cold, it's probably jetted a bit too rich.
Regards,
Rob
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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by ReCycled » Fri Apr 10, 2020 11:29 am

If swapping the whole alternator assembly especially with a different gear, gear lash will be affected. Separating alternator from cush drive is still in order.

As bad as your clutch plates were, it still smelled more rubber than clutch.
David B.
'07 Ural Twourist

stagewex
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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by stagewex » Fri Apr 10, 2020 1:22 pm

True David. The alternator I have on the shelf was the original one. It was working intermittently and I always had a spare. Just never got around to cleaning it up. Both alternators are the ones with the Herzog gears so wouldn't they be identical. The original Uranium built ones. I had considered getting the new type that Rich and a few other guys have that like them so much. But for right now I'm just using it to see if it's the culprit making the "whirring" noise.

Chad/Marty or other moderators, if you want to switch this stuff to "wrenching" I'm all for it. No longer "What did you do to your Ural Today" applicable at this point.
Stagewex

Current Herd all running amok:
2019 Honda CRF450L (Elec Start)
2008 Vespa 150S (Elec & Kick Start)
2007 Ural Patrol (2WD, Elec & Kick Start)
2006 Honda "Big Ruckus" PS250 (Elec Start)
1991 Honda XR250L (Kick Start Only) *NOT running amok, out for Bottom & Top-End Rebuild.
1986 Yamaha BW200ES (Elec & Kick Start)

List what you "have", keep the others in your precious memory bank.

RC20
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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by RC20 » Fri Apr 10, 2020 1:29 pm

Replacing the hex fasteners with a grade 8 cap screw on the steering damper is small potatoes but we putt on.

Annoying location for the hex and hard to get tension on, easy reach for a box end with a cap screw. It took me two shots to get them to stay tight, hard to get the right amount of tension on them in the location.

Anyone have a source of decent quality Acorn nuts for the exhaust studs? Mine on the left side are badly corroded, stud is ok and anti seize on it but they look bad.
Fear No Gravel
Formerly Owned: ( various rides on others)
Honda 90
2 x CB750K (one a true Japan Model flown to Hawaii by a P3 Orion Sub Patrol Aircraft!)
1 x CB700 SC ala Shaft Drive Nighthawk S (RC20 is the actual in house production Model)
1 x R80GS (ok to start with, learned to love it for what it was)
1 x CB450K

Current:
1 x 2019 cT Terracotta

What I Did (I quit June 2 , 2019)
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Birdy
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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by Birdy » Fri Apr 10, 2020 2:54 pm

I got some SS one at Lowes.
2017 Ural Patrol, Lenin's Revenge
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Tomcatfixer
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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by Tomcatfixer » Fri Apr 10, 2020 4:01 pm

I checked on my Evapo-rust-soaking parts after 20 hours and they look better, but some still have rust on 'em, so I'll let 'em stay in the solution a little longer. I guess I'll rinse 'em with water, then spray 'em down with WD-40 to prevent flash rust from forming, until I figure out what I'm ultimately gonna do with 'em.

2020-04-10 15.45.23.jpg
2020-04-10 15.45.34.jpg
2020-04-10 15.45.45.jpg
2020-04-10 15.45.56.jpg

Question: this clutch is quite rusty. I'm considering soaking the flywheel and intermediate discs, but what could I use to coat them afterwards to inhibit the rust's return, yet not foul the clutch plates? (No, I'm not planning to coat the sections of the intermediate plates that contact the friction material)

2020-04-10 15.46.08.jpg
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- Chad

Gordonsville, Virginia, USA

Current rides:
2015 Ural cT "Mobile Chernobyl", 2001 Ural Patrol "Little Red Bear", 1999 Ural Tourist "The RPOC", Mid-Nineties Ural Tourist "The Heap", 1994 Honda VFR750F

Previous rides:
2007 Honda VTR1000 FireStorm (Super Hawk in U.S.)
2001 Buell Blast! - - - - - - - 2005 Yamaha FJR1300
1993 Honda CBR600F2 - -1984 Yamaha FJ1100
Two different 1986 Yamaha FZX700S Fazers

cookiemech
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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by cookiemech » Fri Apr 10, 2020 4:17 pm

Pulled all three wheels on my 2020 GU for three reasons: Check spoke tension, check balance, and make sure there was spline lube on the pusher and s/c wheels (there was, plenty of it). It only has 930 miles (one month old), but spokes seem to want to loosen on new wheels, particularly on the pusher. Sure enough, four or five spokes on that wheel were loose enough to need one full turn or so with my spoke torque wrench, set to 44 in-lb (midway on the Ural spec for spoke torque). The other two wheels needed just a bit of touch-up, nothing significant.

Already have significant wear on the pusher's Duro tire, and that's the one that took the most balance weight. Nothing was over- or under-torqued and it was a satisfying afternoon.
1982 BMW R100T
1994 BMW K75RT
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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by Snakeoil » Fri Apr 10, 2020 4:29 pm

I checked on my Evapo-rust-soaking parts after 20 hours
Hey Chad, you might want to start a new thread on this in wrenching, since it is valuable info for the next guy. I tend to think that tech tips get lost in this thread.

It does not hurt to wire brush a part before putting in Evaporust. It knocks off the loose rust. No sense killing the Evaporust eating up rust that is easily removed by hand.

I believe (going from memory here) that Evaporust does create a compound that is sort of a rust inhibitor. I'd read the container and/or go to their website for more info. I believe that any blackened areas where rust once was are now iron phosphate, a very stable compound. But not really sure about that. All depends what is in Evaporust.

I rarely use it on items I can bead blast. For me, it's for the inside of tanks and such that you just cannot get to. I'd blast that pressure plate. And it is going to rust again if the bike sits. It's just nature of the beast, just like brake rotors on your cars/trucks when they sit for any length of time.
Regards,
Rob
Proud member of the Peanut Gallery
2000 Ural Tourist
40 Pilots, 122 Mains
Before you say something stupid, always ask yourself, "What would Harpo say?".

RC20
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Re: What did you do to your Ural today?

Post by RC20 » Fri Apr 10, 2020 5:53 pm

Birdy wrote:
Fri Apr 10, 2020 2:54 pm
I got some SS one at Lowes.
I will give em a try.
Fear No Gravel
Formerly Owned: ( various rides on others)
Honda 90
2 x CB750K (one a true Japan Model flown to Hawaii by a P3 Orion Sub Patrol Aircraft!)
1 x CB700 SC ala Shaft Drive Nighthawk S (RC20 is the actual in house production Model)
1 x R80GS (ok to start with, learned to love it for what it was)
1 x CB450K

Current:
1 x 2019 cT Terracotta

What I Did (I quit June 2 , 2019)
Mechanic/Technician/Engineer: Electro Mechanical Systems

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