Newbie to ural,few dumb questions

[Rickgren]

Hi all,seen a gu at the vegas bike show this last week and loved it. Went on a hunt and found a 06 but brand new (dealer sai it had the gun mounts and I belived him oh well) anyway got it,loved it but, I was wondering if it's normal for the engine to rev high when you roll off the throtle. To kick it down at a light I hold in the front brake and let the clutch out a lil to kick it down. I also noticed today that after I started it (I used the choke then after warm up I poped them back in) it started to spuitter in mid range rpm's. I didn't take it to work today didn't trust it and took one of the other bikes. I'm hoping that these are break-in issues it had 20 km on it when I bought it and that was 2 days ago. Other than that it's a kick in the a$$ and since I've never seen one around here I get folks staring at it all the time.
Thanks for the help.
P.S. does it take an act of god to get that damn ugly locking gas cap off?

[Big Mike]

These seem to be regular issues on a Ural. For the rev issue, make sure to check the throttle cables, especially at the splitter where it breaks to each carb. This tends to hang up as it moves around under the rig. Several people have wire-tied it in place as a solution. Also check the compliance fittings at the carb to head connection. Sometimes a leaking fitting can cause revving, and can be potentially fatal to the engine if left unchecked.

As to the sputtering, again there are several solutions. Check the fuel system as this seems to be the culprit many times. The filters on the petcock, the in-line filters, and gunk in the carb tend to cause interrupted flow which can cause the engine to sputter.

The key to any Ural problem solving I've learned is to keep it simple and work to the complex. In my limited learning experience with these rigs, the simplest things tend to solve a great many problems.

Welcome to the foil,
-Mike

[seth]

the gas cap can be tricky, try unlocking it and tightening it untill it clicks then unscrewing it.
my bike ran pretty rough at first, you just gotta take it easy for the first few hundred kms and let the bike work itself in. i didn't mess around with the engine and it worked most of it's sneezes and coughs out on its own.
I allways use the enrichers and there are usually a few sputters as I get underway and the bike is still a little cold but I guess thats just normal for these bikes.
I'm not sure about the high idle, mine isn't like that.
good luck
seth

[Mud Pie]

You're doing the final seating of all parts in that engine (you'll understand when you change your oil). Tight tolerances are words not used when describing these beasts. If I had two Urals, I'd probably name them Slop and Slap, cause there sure is a lot of them in these things.

As the engine breaks in, the parts move more freely, causing the idle to rise. We've all been there. Scared the bejesus outta me until the learned foilheads here quelled my fears. After a couple hundred km's, when the engine is warmed up, simply back off the idle screws equally on both carbs a wee bit. And I mean a wee bit.

p.s. Unlock the gas cap and throw the key in a drawer somewhere. Not worth the hassle. Never even tried mine, it stayed on the spare key ring. I've read too many horror stories about them. Ditto with the fork lock if your rig has one.

[pigdog]

I think Mud Pie has hit it right on about the revs. It's a function of the engine breaking in. Someday while you are riding around and the engine has had a chance to warm up, you can try to adjust your idle screws and see if that helps. More than likely, that should do the trick.

As to the mid-range throttle problem, let the bike warm up a little longer. Ural carbs are set VERY lean from the factory. You may want to consider re-jetting. After seven years, mine is still very cold natured, but then again, I'm still running the stock jets.

[redflasher]

Take a strap wrench and remove that ugly chrome gas cap and throw it away. Get yourself a nice black plastic one(Someone here will give you the number of the cap to ask for at your local auto parts store)

I think that chrome cap looks crappy on the green GearUP

[Rickgren]

Thanks for the input. I got home and hopped on war hog and it seemed to loose the sputter. I've yet to take it on the road to see if that fixed itself yet. As for the gas cap from hell, I found a napa part number on this site and got their last one for $6.25. It looked small but it fits great and looks better. Again,thanks for a great form where folks don't call you an idiot because of not knowing about a new russian bike that you've never seen before.

[MartyL]

Thanks for the input. I got home and hopped on war hog and it seemed to loose the sputter. I've yet to take it on the road to see if that fixed itself yet. As for the gas cap from hell, I found a napa part number on this site and got their last one for $6.25. It looked small but it fits great and looks better. Again,thanks for a great form where folks don't call you an idiot because of not knowing about a new russian bike that you've never seen before.

Welcome! You'll find an array of individuals who have different levels of knowlege about these wonderful Russian machines. No one here will dog you for lack of knowledge or asking what you think are dumb questions. This is truly a great site. Ask away! Cheers!!!

[csbdr]

You're doing the final seating of all parts in that engine (you'll understand when you change your oil). Tight tolerances are words not used when describing these beasts. If I had two Urals, I'd probably name them Slop and Slap, cause there sure is a lot of them in these things.

As the engine breaks in, the parts move more freely, causing the idle to rise. We've all been there. Scared the bejesus outta me until the learned foilheads here quelled my fears. After a couple hundred km's, when the engine is warmed up, simply back off the idle screws equally on both carbs a wee bit. And I mean a wee bit.

p.s. Unlock the gas cap and throw the key in a drawer somewhere. Not worth the hassle. Never even tried mine, it stayed on the spare key ring. I've read too many horror stories about them. Ditto with the fork lock if your rig has one.

I've had the same issue...same fix. Just make sure you warm up the bike before messing with the idle screws. That means go ride it 15-20 minutes to get it up to operating temperature, not run it 5 minutes in the driveway. I made that mistake and the revs continued to drive me nuts until I did it the right way. These bikes have all sorts of eccentricities which will work themselves out with time! Congrats and welcome to the insanity! Chris

[Rickgren]

Again thanks for the warm welcome. I have one more dumb question. I noticed today after I went to the store down the hill that the orange light for the turn signals stayes on. The blinkers arn't on but the light stayed on. Is this a dummy light that should say there she blows? Is it the famous usa blinker getting ready to take a crap? Does it mean my fries are done? No idea here. I just don't want to mess this bike up. Got others to ride and they don't ride like lawn mowers but there is something about this GU that I just love the hell out of.
Thanks again

[George Butz]

Welcome

Most of us newbies have all had to buy a new blinker .
My 2007 blew the first week. John has a good photo of where to find it.
He'll find your post any minute now.

You are at the right place to get sound answers.
Again, Welcome......

[greenmachine]

Real men ride real rigs which have a real russian thermal flasher. These NEVER go out, and work just as crappy after years of road salt as they did when they were new..... but they still WORK, assuming a real MAN has set up the lamps and grounds.

These young studs with them electronikal kontraptions of the devil will never get a proper edumacation other than changing parts fer cryin out loud..... oughta be a law.....



nevermind

;-)
kermitski

[George Butz]

The clear plastic US blinkers are POC...
Put in a thermal . When's the last time you had to replace one on a 60 Chevy pickup...Like never

[Rickgren]

Can anyone tell me where these idle screws are at? The manual doest say and ofcourse it says if I adjust them it voids the warranty yada,yada,yada.
How tuff are these gu? I've seen the video's of these things tearing up the hills, just want to make sure this thing can handle it after I break it in.
Thanks

[Double Barrel]

If you look at the bottom of the carbs, there is a screw twards the front. its sorta inside a sleeve (that protects it) Thats where ya find it! The screw driver that came with your bike fits in it just fine.

Heres a pic from a website that is swapping jets. http://www.dwightrahl.com/bottom_of_bowl.jpg The right side of the pic is the front of the carb. You can see that screw that is set in some. Thats the one you want.