Toe in toe out: How to get my Ural to go straight?

[Iron Butt]

Help! My Ural is pulling to the left! Fighting with this for any length of time is very unfun. Also I am reading that tire ware will happen at a quicker pace if this issue is not addressed! According to the manual I am suppossed to "Decrease the toe in" Well and good! Er...how? The manual is not clear. It appears the mech. vocab is not consistant and the manual wording doesn't seem clear to me. My dealership is non communicative as they have my money and are not Ural dealerships by nature, but Harley guys! Visited MY URAL. no luck there.
Do I correct the toe in/ out with the back "Slant rod" only? Or is it combination of back and front slant rods being extended and screwed in along with the lock bolts being situated correctly? It aslo appears that both slant rods are used in setting the degree of lean as well? This is not to be played with until the toe in/ out is first set, sez, the manual. Any way, do you folks have any sure fire suggestions to make Ural go Straight? Thanks in advance from a just budding foil head newbie guy!

[a1930ford]

Go to http://www.sidecar.com Once there, to to the top icons and look for links and books. Once there, go to about the pdf reference and hit the icon for Hal Kendal's book; the Sidecar Manual. Don't hit the Sidecar Operator's manual, unless you just want something to read for your knowledge. The info you want is in his manual, and the price is just right for you. A free pdf download to your computer. It will tell you how to set up your sidecar and describe lean out and toe in and such.

I believe a search of this site, Russian Iron and IMZ will likely do about the same, but Hal's book is a nice reference and is handy at times. Check it out for yourself.

Some folks use the aluminum poles and others have different things to use to do the measurements with. Someone told me that they use standard florescent lightbulbs attached with rubber bands, as they are very straight and an aluminum post can get bent or warped over time.

Good luck on it.

[JohnBG]

Try reading the attached pdf file...

[Iron Butt]

Yup, this site sounds like what is needed! I will go to the site and down load the info. Many thanks to Mr. 1930 Ford! I also sent out for the maintenance CD from a dealership. They say the CD shows the balancing of the side car. A fellow there says they don't like to show alot of detail, like where exactly you measure from. But enough info. to get in trouble with! Anyway, thanks again!

John, is that attachment from the manual? Thanks anywho!

[JohnBG]

Yup, this site sounds like what is needed! I will go to the site and down load the info. Many thanks to Mr. 1930 Ford! I also sent out for the maintenance CD from a dealership. They say the CD shows the balancing of the side car. A fellow there says they don't like to show alot of detail, like where exactly you measure from. But enough info. to get in trouble with! Anyway, thanks again!

John, is that attachment from the manual? Thanks anywho!

Yes, the attachemnt is from a manual I had somewhere.

Measure from the front and rear wheels at a point perpendicular to the axles.

[hard8]

I have the maintenance DVDs. It's really just a collection of Quicktime mpegs. If it's helpful I could post these on an ftp if someone needs visual aid.

[Robbie Moore]

I've found that at different speeds my rig will pull right or left the trick is to setup the rig to track straight at the speed you most commonly run at.

[hard8]

Mine seems to travel straight at 40-45

It wants to veer to the right at speeds over 35 and to the left t speeds under 35. It also depends on how much gas I apply and how quickly.

Once I hit hit 40-45 it locks into a line and feels really solid. Haven't be over 45 so I have no insight there.

[Paindoc]

Mine seems to travel straight at 40-45

It wants to veer to the right at speeds over 35 and to the left t speeds under 35. It also depends on how much gas I apply and how quickly.

Once I hit hit 40-45 it locks into a line and feels really solid. Haven't be over 45 so I have no insight there.

All Urals show inertia on acceleration and decelleration, ie. the car drags behind causing pull to right on throttle, and the car tries to pass you as you roll off throttle. Also all show different behavior as you move on and off the crown in the roadway. Mine was always pulling to right until IvanRider tuned it at roadside with a little more lean-out for the bike. Ballast also makes a big difference. More weight in car increases lag when speeding up and slowing down. Also more weight in car makes left turns harder (but right turns less scary!)

[Robbie Moore]

Well not all Urals.... Solos and Sportsmans don't have the push and pull. If you've ever have the chance to drive a Sportsman DON'T It will make you wish you could still get a new one they are the best handling Ural w/sidecar ever made. The only big downside of a Sportsman is not being able to fly the chair.

The other thing that can make your rig push and pull is air pressure in the tires. I tuned my bike to track true at 55.

[Iron Butt]

Great info. here! Have adjusted toe in through decreasing it! It stears foward now and the turns are not a terror anymore! Really appreciated the input!
Thanks everyone for the resources and adivce!