First Service To-Do List

[St0nkingByte]

With all this amazing weather we're having here in WA it looks like this coming Saturday is going to be set aside for me to do the first service on the Ural. This morning I was looking at the manaul to see what will need doing and I'm thinking the list from the service coupon page might be missing a few things.

Here's what the service coupon page says to do:

• Change engine oil and filter.
• Change transmission oil.
• Change final drive oil.
• Check condition of the gasoline petcock, remove any contaminants, replace in-line fuel ilters.
• Check carburetors while idling for synchronous operation.
• Check tension of wheel spokes.
• Check fasteners for proper tightening.
• Check steering column bearings.
• Check alternator bolts
• Check brake fluid reservoir

I'm thinking this list also needs:

• Torque the head bolts
• Adjust valves
• Check/torque sidecar mounts
• Check/adjust brakes

What else am I missing?

[JohnBG]

That's pretty much it...

I don't torque the heads past 36 ft-lb, even though the manual sasys 40-42 IIRC.

If ya got one of them Ducati ignitions on yer new rig, you could alsways drag out the timing light and check it, but probably not necessary.

[WKinNJ]

With all this amazing weather we're having here in WA it looks like this coming Saturday is going to be set aside for me to do the first service on the Ural. This morning I was looking at the manaul to see what will need doing and I'm thinking the list from the service coupon page might be missing a few things.

Here's what the service coupon page says to do:

• Change engine oil and filter.
• Change transmission oil.
• Change final drive oil.
• Check condition of the gasoline petcock, remove any contaminants, replace in-line fuel ilters.
• Check carburetors while idling for synchronous operation.
• Check tension of wheel spokes.
• Check fasteners for proper tightening.
• Check steering column bearings.
• Check alternator bolts
• Check brake fluid reservoir

I'm thinking this list also needs:

• Torque the head bolts
• Adjust valves
• Check/torque sidecar mounts
• Check/adjust brakes

What else am I missing?

Even though the manual said nothing about checking head torque or adjusting the valves on the first service, on some good advice I did this anyway. Turns out it the heads and the valves really needed to be done. I also “Checked fasteners for proper tightening." Good thing, the battery cable was ready to fall off.

[S 854]

Thanks for the post, Stonk...

I've been thinking about this topic for awhile... might I add to you list...

Is it a good idea to have the first service done by a Ural shop, if possible...?

Time's gonna be kinda tight this June, and if I don't have to spend a couple-three days riding in circles to get up to the 500 klic mark, I'd be three days ahead... if ya know what I mean...

[JohnBG]

Thanks for the post, Stonk...

I've been thinking about this topic for awhile... might I add to you list...

Is it a good idea to have the first service done by a Ural shop, if possible...?

Time's gonna be kinda tight this June, and if I don't have to spend a couple-three days riding in circles to get up to the 500 klic mark, I'd be three days ahead... if ya know what I mean...

Most Ural dealers include the first 500km service. At least mine did...

[St0nkingByte]

My dealer is a good 120 miles away so I'm going to do my own. I can do all the service on my 2005 BMW so I'm thinking the Ural is going to be super easy.

The mech at my dealer suggested 38 lb-pounds for the head bolts, I think. Or maybe he said everywhere the manual said 40-42 use 38 so you don't break anything . Something like that.

[Spyder]

I took mine to a service shop for the 500; I wanted someone who knew what they were doing since it's the first one and all. I clustered through the second one myself

[George Butz]

Looking in my 2007 manual, the adjusting of valves and re-torque is scheduled for the 10,000 km service. No problem checking this earlier, but that is what the manual requires. Maybe tighter tolerances and aluminum cylinders make a difference from the older schedule. Mr. Glaser will probably shed some light on this, as I am rather curious about it, myself.

[St0nkingByte]

Looking in my 2007 manual, the adjusting of valves and re-torque is scheduled for the 10,000 km service. No problem checking this earlier, but that is what the manual requires. Maybe tighter tolerances and aluminum cylinders make a difference from the older schedule. Mr. Glaser will probably shed some light on this, as I am rather curious about it, myself.

Oh don't tempt me, skipping the valve adjust and head bolt torquing would save a bunch of time (Yes I'm slow).

[redflasher]

I did my valves at 1000 km and they all needed adjustment. Seemed a little quieter afterward. But now, the left valve cover seeps a bit. No big deal.

[heindlengineeringural]

We always check the valves at the 500km service. Sometimes they do need ajusting at that point. When we do a setup on a new machine we also check the valves before the engine is ever started at our shop. A lot of times, the valves are set a little too tight from the factory. As Sergey says...loose good...

[URAL CT]

Hi ya'll,
What should the intake and exhaust valve setting be? OK head torque not to exceed ~36 ft-lb.... cool.
Thanks....

[berger]

Hi ya'll,
What should the intake and exhaust valve setting be? OK head torque not to exceed ~36 ft-lb.... cool.
Thanks....

The manual recommends .004, but I believe Mr. Cob and others sets theirs at .005. Anywhere between those two is good. Remember, you should be able to release the gauge and have it stay there when you do your adjustment. Three hands is ideal, but once you get used to it, you can do it with the two God gave ya.

berger

[URAL CT]

Hi Berger......is it .005" for intake and .005" for exhaust ??? Oooops sorry st0n .. I didn't mean to hijack this thread.
Charlie T.

[ReCycled]

Read down to post # 62 of this thread and you'll see Mr. Cob is happy with .006" intake and exhaust.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthre ... light=.006