Breaking in and getting it movin for real

[St0nkingByte]

What do you guys think about getting a new Ural on the highway for short periods of time during the break in period? I live in the city/dense suburbs so for me the highway, for at least brief stretches, is a major part of my life and getting around without getting on and off for at least short stretches is pretty frustrating. Is 60mph on the highway really wide-open beating the hell out of the engine or can it hack it (pun intended) ?? I'm not talking about long trips I'm just thinking some of the 5-15 minute jaunts that I need to get around town.

Without a tach it's a bit difficult for a newbie to judge how hard the engine is running in various gears at various speeds. When I was breaking in my BMW I never had a problem keeping it under 4k RPMs like that manual recommended because 4k is about 75mph in sixth on that beast

[Bilgekeeldave]

These are not as finely machined as BMWs. You are doing the final machining as you break it in. Keeping the speed under 40 mph in the first 1000 to 1500 Kms is important. Follow the recommended oil change intervals. Just be patient, do a lot of short trips until it's broken in. You will save yourself a lot of trouble if you do.

Dave

[greenmachine]

I wouldn't think you'd have any big problems with a bit of travel at speeds around 60MPH for short stretches during the break-in period. If you try to cruise at 60MPH and ABOVE to keep up with traffic, you will not only beat the snot out of it but you'll get run over by a truck....

;-)

What's the maximum speed listed in your shiny owner's manual? That gives you an idea of what percentage of that number you would like to be pulling from your tight new engine....

Last time I checked MY manual it stated 62 MPH was the maximum speed for a Patrol model. Many folks push that number by a wide margin regularly. Many folks complain of " reliability " issues too ....
I dunno.

:-))

kermitski

[heindlengineeringural]

As long as you run it up and down and don't hold it at a constant RPM for extended periods.

[St0nkingByte]

Last time I checked MY manual it stated 62 MPH was the maximum speed for a Patrol model. Many folks push that number by a wide margin regularly. Many folks complain of " reliability " issues too ....
I dunno.

)

kermitski

I believe my manual says 65 MPH but I've had it going 40 MPH in third and it doesn't seem to me like it's working all that hard, which is what got me wondering if I couldn't hit the highway just a teensy bit to get over to some of the better back roads riding.

The prospect of never going over 40 MPH for the first 1,500kms makes me ill. Maybe I bought the wrong bike but the idea of spending 24 hours (1,500 kms / 40 MPH) of riding time putting around my neighborhood makes me want to puke. If I want to get away from my neighborhood I'm going to have to surpass 40 MPH a little bit to do it.

Shoot I never shoulda asked a break-in question, I might as well asked y'all about oil or maybe helmets

[seth]

i think you can hit the highways for short runs after the 1st oil change just go as slow as you can to keep from getting flattened.
60 is pushing it but if you are easy on the throttle and shifting it shouldn't be too horrible to do a small stretch of highway.
are your brakes broken in yet and have you adjusted them yet? i think that is more important after the 500km mark. if you wanna have some speed yer gunna need alot more stop.
good luck
seth

[JohnBG]

Shoot I never shoulda asked a break-in question, I might as well asked y'all about oil or maybe helmets

Castrol 20W50 and I don't wear a helmet.

You can do 60 mph spurts during the first 500km, but the key during those first 500 is to vary the throttle a lot (don't like constant speeds for too long) and give it plent of heating and cooling cycles.

IMO, after the first 500km, change all the fluids, re-tighten all the nuts & bolts and ride it like ya stole it and beat it like a rented mule...

[Bilgekeeldave]

I wear two helmets, and I don't use any oil!

Dave

[a1930ford]

If you are already puking and complaining about slow speed travel during the break-in/wear-in period, alone, then you did indeed purchase the wrong bike. Maybe buyer's remorse has set in, but don't give up. The break-in period is actually in your own hands to resolve.

The fellows are trying to tell you that the variance of throttle speed means a lot on these puppies. Opinions vary a bit more as to how to do the actual break-in (ride it like you stole it or go by the manual). Regardless, the Ural Patrol is not generally going to be a power house rocket on the highways in it's stock configuration, broken-in or not. Not that the machine can't do runs of 70mph, but competing with HD's, sports bikes and Jap bikes is not something that most will do as the daily norm over the years. The machine was made for something else in that regard.

You gotta' live through the break-in period in order to get to the true sweet spot of the rig's capabilities. Breaking it in by riding through the neighborhood will likely take much more time than finding some good roads to travel and opening her up with the varied throttle speeds. It can also lead to lugging, which is far worse for the average engine than an occassional zip in the MPH category. Unfortunately, I had to do something similar when I lived in Arlington, as most of the roads near me were neighborhood roads or super slabs. Staying only in the local neighborhood means a lengthy and somewhat boring ride and break-in period.

Once the break-in is done, you should see some noticible changes in the throttle response, the Russian clunk transmission, and maybe even the ride characteristics of the rig, itself. Many of the quirks of the rig will show themselves during this time and can be worked out, so it is indeed an important time in the life cycle of the rig. By the time the break-in is complete, you even become a seasoned pilot in many respects. You may have to grit you teeth and bide your time until you get through that break-in period if you are truely in an area where you can't do much except for local neighborhood riding. I'd say get out of the neighborhood and hit the frontage roads to burn up the kms and get the vairance of throttle speeds done. Take a motion sickness pill and get over the puking. The control over the type of break-in being done on your rig is in your own hands.

If you decide to take the info the guys are giving and it doesn't cure the puking, then I'd have to say you probably did purchase the wrong machine. However, I suspect your woes will get better once the wear-in timeframe is no more than a memory.

[greenmachine]

I wouldn't pay all that much attention to the 40MPH bidness....
Just keep the engine in it's sweet spot most of the time where ya ain't pulling heavy on the throttle to accelerate, and ya are NOT LUGGING at all. These boxers do not like to be lugged around much.

The actual break-in needed for these new 750s is not much. They will tend to get a bit hot sometimes initially, but not always. Just take it a bit easy for a the first couple thou and listen and sniff for any signs of running hot .... but ride it more or less in a normal fashion. Getting up some speed and cruising at 55MPH or so or even a bit at up around 60MPH is not at all a bad thing on a shiny new engine. Like the fella said, just don't pull hard power up long hills and stuff and keep varying yer rev band. Do plenty of downhill engine braking to help seat the rings.

Get used to riding in the 50-60MPH bracket. It's fun and you get more time to wave at the cows. I ride my poor old rig at over 70MPH once in a while.... but not for long.... cuz I'd prefer not to have to walk home in the snow....

All will be well..... Break-in on these current engines is NOTHING like the fine beauteous oval-heads. Piece-o-cake.

kermitski

[St0nkingByte]

OK all input is well received and there is no puking going on. I'm not upset that the rig is slow, in fact I don't really think it is all that slow, based on what I'd read online before I bought it I thought it'd be a real pig but it's got some serious get up and go, especially without a passenger. Might it help that the dealer rejetted it for me? Or don't they all do that? Anyway I don't have buyer's remorse at all the Ural thrills the heck out of me and my kids fight over who gets to ride with me, what more could I ask for?

After reviewing my options I'm finding some more ways to get around without hitting the highway and there are more paths open to me than I originally expected. While there are some 45mph speed limit roads I need to traverse the reality is I don't spend much time on them. Today I managed to get out for a bit and actually threaded through the back streets and rode to church and back, which is clear across town Had to hit 45mph for a short stretch to keep from getting run down but otherwise it weren't bad at all oh and the trip took me about three times longer than it should but it was all fun.

My biggest problem at this point is getting my sidecar'ing skills down. With each ride the rig feels less twitchy as I learn how to compensate unconciously for the yaw and not be so jerky on the throttle. The truth is I'm not ready yet for 60mph anyway but I am progressing. 30mph which previously seemed scary fast now seems reasonable and now 40-45mph is scary

It's so much fun being a newbie and asking stupid questions, I appreciate you guys taking the time to keep me in line.

[BillyG]

With the new CNC timing and gear box gears you don't have any real "run-in" like was needed with the old square cut Russian gears. However, you still have the old style gears in the final drive. I'd use 50 mph as an initial speed to run-in the f.d. ring and pinion gear.

Read the following link as it explains the run-in process. Do what the author suggests for running-in...but you can speed it up a bit as you are only polishing the f.d. gears not the entire engine and gear box. The "drive it below XX mph" crap is for Bozo's that the factory knows are going to be riding the bikes and abusing/ignoring the run-in process...it was a speed that would keep one from over heating the gears during running and seizing the engine/gear-box or final drive. Once the factory starts sticking the CNC machined f.d. gears in the machines, running them in will be a thing of the past.

What seats the rings is being very brisk whilst applying throttle, holding that speed a short bit and then backing off the throttle. Running up and down the gear stack at the upper rpm's is what seats them rings in just a few minutes. Puss puss'in around is not doing the cylinders any favors.

You can lay the whip to it...just do it smartly. Don't be afraid to get it up to speed...just step the speed up like the article below suggests.


http://www.cybersteering.com/cruise/fea ... ullet.html

[mightymatt43]

...man, i'm glad i joined this forum...

[St0nkingByte]

...man, i'm glad i joined this forum...

Now you're not being sarcastic are you?

[mightymatt43]

...man, i'm glad i joined this forum...

Now you're not being sarcastic are you?

haha... i'm just realizing now that it sounded like i was being a jerk. i was actually being serious... i probably would have started my GU on fire if i hadn't learned important newbie tips from the people on this board. i'm a complete idiot when it comes to mechanics so i need all the help i can get.

my goal is to one day be able to post something of value on this site...