Soviet Steeds

by **catfish** » Thu Aug 16, 2007 11:30 pm

I remember that write up and the pictures. It's too bad that it got deleted.In fact I think this is the first time that you said anything about how the modification has been working out.

CATFISH

by **DaveO** » Fri Aug 17, 2007 11:08 am

catfish wrote:I remember that write up and the pictures. It's too bad that it got deleted.In fact I think this is the first time that you said anything about how the modification has been working out.

CATFISH

Yepper, that's pretty much what I thought too...Actually, John used to ask about it occasionally...it's still doing it's job, quietly even, but, I don't know how many miles I've put on it....I'm on the 3rd speedo and the 2nd one's odo didn't work for a couple years

by **catfish** » Fri Aug 17, 2007 8:50 pm

If I remember correctly you filled in some casting ports with I think that low temperature aluminum alloy rod you can but at fairs and such.I would like to do mine sometime so I hope you can find some of your notes and do a short write up as I see you still have some pictures of the conversion Thanks

CATFISH

by **DaveO** » Sat Aug 18, 2007 8:01 am

catfish wrote:If I remember correctly you filled in some casting ports with I think that low temperature aluminum alloy rod you can but at fairs and such.I would like to do mine sometime so I hope you can find some of your notes and do a short write up as I see you still have some pictures of the conversion Thanks

CATFISH

Hi Dennis,
Yes, you remembered correctly, I used DuraFix http://www.durafix.com/ to fill the casting webs. There was really only one place to install the zerk on the left side of the adapter and have it above the centerline. My right side access is buried under the exhaust. I wish I had saved the write-up myself as I didn't expect it to disappear, and don't usually take notes....I do think I have enough pics to do a re-write though

by **JohnBG** » Tue Aug 21, 2007 4:38 pm

BillyG wrote:The Grease is Dupont Krytox. There are several types for different applications. There is also the Mil-spec version which is super $$$ and the non Mil. version which is just $$. Both are the same of course, just one has the extra "paper". Sort of like automotive airplane parts...same part as for your car, just costs 4X as much because it has a PMA sticker on it. Here's an article on it's use for informational purposes;

Instead of the Kytox, how about one of these greases with 425 to 550 degree max. heat rating?

http://www.lub-o-seal.com/products/data ... -LOGMG.pdf
http://www.lub-o-seal.com/products/data ... D-LOGL.pdf

by **edthetermite** » Sat Oct 20, 2007 10:06 am

"Yes, you remembered correctly, I used DuraFix http://www.durafix.com/ to fill the casting webs. There was really only one place to install the zerk on the left side of the adapter and have it above the centerline. " -DaveO

Dave,

Would it be feasible to use a sleeve to pass thru the web opening? Or is filling the casting web the only straightforward way to get it done?

Ed

by **DaveO** » Sun Oct 21, 2007 11:42 am

edthetermite wrote:
Dave,

Would it be feasible to use a sleeve to pass thru the web opening? Or is filling the casting web the only straightforward way to get it done?

Ed

Hi Ed,
It could be done, I reckon, but I believe it's a whole bunch easier to just fill and drill...definitely more straightforward...

by **dmobrien2001** » Sun Oct 21, 2007 2:21 pm

DaveO wrote:Hi Ed,
It could be done, I reckon, but I believe it's a whole bunch easier to just fill and drill...definitely more straightforward...

I asked on the other thread, but it got lost in the shuffle. So the purpose of filling the casting is to be able to direct the grease to the bearings?

I have the Durafix rods. They are pretty neat. We repaired the tail hand rail on my son's KLR after he laid it over on the street.

by **Rickgren** » Sun Oct 21, 2007 2:50 pm

Hey all
Getting my 500 km service at the dealers tomorrow (yeah John I know I know but another issue poped up) I noticed I had a fluid drip from the alt bearing already. Plus it's starting to get louder. What is the best the dealer can do? I'm not looking for warrenty work I want to pay and have it fixed right once and for all. If the dealers have it a week then so be it. Any idea's?
Thanks

by **JohnBG** » Sun Oct 21, 2007 6:36 pm

Rickgren wrote:Hey all
Getting my 500 km service at the dealers tomorrow (yeah John I know I know but another issue poped up) I noticed I had a fluid drip from the alt bearing already. Plus it's starting to get louder. What is the best the dealer can do? I'm not looking for warrenty work I want to pay and have it fixed right once and for all. If the dealers have it a week then so be it. Any idea's?
Thanks

Its gonna get a little louder as it wears in...

As far as the drip. I don't know what to do about it. I'd make the dealer take it aparrt and inspect it if it were me.

by **MartyL** » Sun Oct 21, 2007 6:38 pm

Rickgren wrote:Hey all
Getting my 500 km service at the dealers tomorrow (yeah John I know I know but another issue poped up) I noticed I had a fluid drip from the alt bearing already. Plus it's starting to get louder. What is the best the dealer can do? I'm not looking for warrenty work I want to pay and have it fixed right once and for all. If the dealers have it a week then so be it. Any idea's?
Thanks

Rick, Bring it to your Dealer's attention, But.... Don't let it make you crazy. These bikes will have a bit of weeping. Also, as the bike breaks in you will hear different sounds. Your idle may increase a little and need some carb tweaking/ Balancing. Don't sweat it. Have your dealer show you the 500KM service so you can do the other up coming services that relate to that first service (Oil change, Head adjust., valve adjust). Don't worry, If I can do it , you can too. If you stick to the routine maintenance schedule and check yer bolts and such regulary you'll be fine. Ride the bike. Have fun.

by **BillyG** » Sun Oct 21, 2007 7:19 pm

Don't worry about a "drip". There is nothing your dealer can do. Don't even bother him/her with it.

If it eats its lunch under warranty...then ya can bend his/her ear.

by **DaveO** » Sun Oct 21, 2007 9:53 pm

dmobrien2001 wrote:
I asked on the other thread, but it got lost in the shuffle. So the purpose of filling the casting is to be able to direct the grease to the bearings?

I have the Durafix rods. They are pretty neat. We repaired the tail hand rail on my son's KLR after he laid it over on the street.

Hi Dan,
I'm sorry I didn't see the question before. Yes, there's 2 voids in the casting between where the zerk needs to go and where the bearings are...one on the front and one on the backside of the adapter..

In the top pic the filled web is at 5 o'clock where the zerk is, this side faces the gear..

In the bottom pic the filled web is at 11 o'clock, it's the side that faces the alt and cush drive

by **Rickgren** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 12:44 pm

Does this new part solve the problem? If so,where can I get one and how much?
Thanks

by **DaveO** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 7:15 pm

Rickgren wrote:Does this new part solve the problem? If so,where can I get one and how much?
Thanks

Hi Rickgren,
It's not a new part, it's a stock adapter that I redesigned/rebuilt to address the lack of lubrication problem, you can now lube the bearings with the zerk ......instead of not at all. I also used an angular contact bearing, #7004, to fix the improper radial loading on the forward bearing set. You can add just the zerk with a new pair of #6004 bearings also, and you can probably use JB weld to fill the casting webs too, as long as you prep them accordingly...

Soviet Steeds

Bearing question for BillyG

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