KansasCityLoser wrote:Ive never changed or adjusted my valves. Didnt know that was something I needed to do. Just ordered a gap measurement tool, and then will search the forums here on how to do it. If there is already a how-to step by step, can someone link it here?
Oh yeah, i also have a 2016 GU i have checked the valve adjustment at least 3 times in 4500km. and i did a adjustment once as they seem to stay in specs. i bought a set of what they call go-no-go feeler gauges their 4 thousand on the end but further up they are 5 thousand,found much easier to use than the standard type. the only aggravating part of the adjustment was the oily feeler gauge slipping out of my hands about 10 times,and the adjustment will change a little when tightening the lock nut. just be patient and all will come together very easy. watch the videos and i would ignore the head bolt torquing part in some videos, i just gently check the head bolts to make sure they arnt loose,all this is IMHO of course. if you decide to torque the head bolts, please do some research first. ps as for the valve cover gasket the newer Urals have a new improved type that can be used several times or more i have had mine off at least 4 times without a leak. suggestion is to smear some Hylomar blue, non Harding sealer on just in case. look up Hylomar its old school Rolls-Royce jet engine gasket stuff the best in the world i think, i got mine on Ebay.KansasCityLoser wrote:Ive never changed or adjusted my valves. Didnt know that was something I needed to do. Just ordered a gap measurement tool, and then will search the forums here on how to do it. If there is already a how-to step by step, can someone link it here?
hotflash44 wrote: if you decide to torque the head bolts, please do some research first.
Don't think my suggestion would come under the category of cryptic or mystical suggestions, i just wanted a newbie like i was once, to research the procedure as some folks haven't and snapped a stud. IMHO (F2 is just one of several acceptable methods of doing the adjustment and a good one im sure!)Eric N wrote:hotflash44 wrote: if you decide to torque the head bolts, please do some research first.
Sorry, not a fan of cryptic suggestions.
Kansas - You'll want to torque the heads before adjusting the valves as it will also change the valve lash. Don't exceed 35 foot pounds, yep get a good torque wrench, it will save having to fix the case. Don't loosen the head bolts and re-torque, that can also help strip the case. Just put the torque wrench on, check gently in a cross pattern, such as lower left, then upper right, upper left, lower right, lower left, and so on. If it feels loose, tighten it a little, go through the cross pattern, tighten a little more. Don't go all crazy on one bolt before moving to the next, things can get bent that way.
I've used the F2 method to adjust valves for years - http://f2mcltd.blogspot.com/2011/10/ura ... tment.html
Remember the you will need to spin the engine with the kickstarter to adjust. Even if you use the TDC method, you can only do one side at a time before having to rotate the engine. If, when checking the valves, they seem insanely tight, you probably have the engine on the wrong part of the stroke. Before adjusting valves, check engine position first.
rougaroo wrote:Old VW trick: use a thin layer of non-permanent RTV to glue the gaskets to the valve covers, not the heads! The most common way the gaskets tear is getting twisted pulling them off.
If/when you need to replace them just pull them away and trim up any debris on the covers with a single-edged razor blade.
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