re power a ural?

The "Pimp my Ride" section for Soviet bloc bikes. Everybody seems to have their own custom add-ons, modifications & accessories. Share your tips and post pictures of them here.
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This is the place for topics concerining modifying and accessorizing your Ural or Denpr.
Michal
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Re: re power a ural?

Postby Michal » Tue Jan 09, 2018 5:33 pm

VWK75S wrote:
Michal wrote:I've just drilled center of carburetor bowls and pressed in piece of 3mm brass tube

Picture?
John


I could remove bowl from my rig to take a picture but it looks same as picture posted by LMO.
I bought 3mm brass tube (at RC hobby shop) for $2 or similar negligible cost. Copper tube would be too soft for press in. Grind a cheap 3mm drill bit sides for little narrower diameter so the tube is firmly pressed in, no resin of questionable reliability in chemical environment is needed. Drilled only until to meet a drain channel so the tube does not block the passage even when pressed in to stop.
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Re: re power a ural?

Postby VWK75S » Wed Jan 10, 2018 6:15 am

Michal wrote:it looks same as picture posted by LMO.

Interesting, that looks like it's inserted into the drain port.
John
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Re: re power a ural?

Postby gobium » Wed Jan 10, 2018 7:26 am

VWK75S wrote:
Michal wrote:it looks same as picture posted by LMO.

Interesting, that looks like it's inserted into the drain port.
John

Lol
Not that simple, look at your cvk32 bowl, inside and drain hole, it is horizontal not vertical.

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Re: re power a ural?

Postby eastbloc » Wed Jan 10, 2018 10:29 am

gobium wrote:
Resized_20180109_111231.jpeg
Mikuni on my Dnepr
Notice the bowl over flow

Cvk 32 doesnot have over flow only bowl vent


This is what I was wondering. Until I got my BC all of my Urals (except Wolf, which was a brief interlude) had Pekar or Mikuni VMs, manual petcocks, and sometimes leaky floats resulting in the contents of the fuel tank being emptied on the ground, but not into the cylinder.

This seems to be a problem peculiar to the Keihin CVK then?
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Re: re power a ural?

Postby Tpex » Wed Jan 10, 2018 8:57 pm

Darman wrote:well I have a good amount of money in my 09 gearup, cant see another $1500 just for parts to fix what I see as poor design. I dont see how so much can come from china but Ural parts are like gold to get here. not sure why there is no way to bore a perfectly good cylinder and put a new piston in one. seems silly we have to buy pistons, jugs and all for a factory fail (wristpin clip not properly installed at the factory) I wont mention a $50 seal, oops, too late. OK enough of my disillusions with Ural engines and parts that cost way too much. I am sorry , I just dont see a $500 crank being a wear part when a lil gas is all it takes to ruin one. save your "you should have known" comments, whats done is done.

OK, what to do with this $10,000.00 plus pile of parts... I could part it out, but why? for all teh work to break it down and all the work to ship all the parts here n there, for a fraction of the money I have in it, dont see it. Possibilities..Hatz diesel? some other small engine? briggs opposed? :P read the guzzi repower thread, had been wondering how much work that would be, when a 750 ural engine cots $3000 plus $300 shipping (ebay) and only 3 months to get here...ok so now I would be up to bout 14 grand in this thing. uhm NO. I admit I didnt realize owning one was something for those in a different tax bracket than I am.

ponderings...make a lil buggy out of the hack like the lil 45Wl somebody made. cool but impractical. I dont know, wait to hit the lottery an pay those prices for new parts? the clutch is new before it got burned...2 days spent putting the HD style early police solo on it before that fateful "clunk" with the starter button and it bent the crank... I miss it, it was my pickup truck, but its become a proverbial money pit, money I no longer have..

I dont know, it needs jugs/pistons, a crank and a gasket kit/seals/bearings, last I checked thats $1500.00. Resale on these seems to fall fast, running it might be worth 7k. what to do..

feel free to make suggestions, It is sitting there and needs some sort of future or it needs to be sold piece by piece.

and please, I am allowed to be disappointed in the durability factor of the crank, so dont give me crap about that, I got enough when it broke about how I should have known blah blah blah. I said then and I will say now that I was here reading every post almost and hydraulic lock taking out cranks wasnt talked about here then, we had final drives going out left n right but thats about it for major failures. We did have clutch issues but Cob came up with a better way and now Ural has a version of his design in them from the factory (Thanks Dave!! ) mine has a brand new Cob clutch with all new flywheel, throwout etc. even a new cable.

anyways, rant is off, pain is dulled now since the summer when I got it running after 3 years of it sitting, only to lose it again. want to drive it or not look at it everyday. Final drive is the weakest link, too much power and I dont think it will last. so VW power is out. Stretch the frame and put a lil inline in it :P



So all you need is two pistons/cylinders and a crank? Why do you need two pistons and cylinders if only one got damaged?

Options:
Selling as-is probably wont get you much ($4K?) while repaired you may get $6.5-$7Kish. Just sitting there won't do you any good either.

A different engine (BMW etc) will set you back even more money with a trans adaptations, unless you can do the work needed to adapt the transmission and you have an engine transplant at hand to use. A well done BMW conversion would up it's resale value but then would cost a lot.

I think your best option is try to get a replacement crank and try to get a piston.cylinder, even if used in good condition is available. Getting the money needed to buy the parts may be difficult, perhaps sell something you no longer need on Craigslist etc.

Perhaps Gobium can give you a good price on a pre-D10 crank he had a while ago along with a good used piston/cylinder(?).

Let me add, UralNE have two Ural part-outs: http://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=50115

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Re: re power a ural?

Postby 4REICH » Sun Jan 21, 2018 11:03 pm

So does kick starting these engines help prevent damaging the cranks?
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Re: re power a ural?

Postby Eric N » Sun Jan 21, 2018 11:48 pm

4REICH wrote:So does kick starting these engines help prevent damaging the cranks?


Kickstarting tells you if there is a problem.

If something happens with the various fuel control regulators (petcock, float, whatever) and fuel flows while the engine is off, it can fill the cylinder with fuel. As the engine cranks to a compression stroke, the fuel won't compress and will stop the piston. If you kickstart and feel the engine won't turn, something is wrong and it's best to figure out what it is before it becomes expensive. If you use the electric starter, it is strong enough that when the piston won't go further due to the fuel, the crankshaft will twist as the starter forces the flywheel to turn.

The crankshafts on Urals are pressed together. It's a low oil pressure design using roller bearings on the rods. 650 crank is 5 pieces, 750 crank is 3, they can all twist.

For those commenting that it's only $1,000 give or take to repair the engine, imagine if you only had $100 in the bank. Darman has been pretty open that his finances aren't super flexible right now. Imagine you have no money, zero, nada, zilch, and your Ural damaged a crank. What would you do? I once worked three jobs to pay off some bills, is fixing the Ural worth getting an extra job for a couple months? Is it worth selling something else to pay for the rebuild, only to worry another problem will pop up soon?
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Re: re power a ural?

Postby 4REICH » Mon Jan 22, 2018 12:06 am

Thanks for the heads up, I have only used e start maybe a dozen times and will never touch it again. If in the original posters unfortunate situation, I would sell the damaged goods and get a 650 bike
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Re: re power a ural?

Postby Eric N » Mon Jan 22, 2018 12:18 am

Using the electric start is fine. The suggestion is that before you hop on the bike, you just cycle through a rotation with the kickstarter. You don't have to push so hard as to start the bike, just gently rotate the engine to make sure there's not a problem. Option B, and I might do it when I get time, is the overflow that's being mentioned. Assuming manual petcock, the overflow will cause gas to drain from the carbs, seriously reducing if not eliminating the hydro-lock risk.

Having both the petcock and floats fail isn't common, but it sucks when it happens.
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Re: re power a ural?

Postby Phill Spowart » Mon Jan 22, 2018 1:16 pm

I've just done a Dnepr-BMW R80 rig. If you can find, or are, a good welding bloke and good machining bloke it's not too hard. I got a donor bike from someones failed hipster cafe racer thing for £900, if you're patient flogging the unwanted bits on ebay you'll get a good chunk of that back. I reckon I've retrieved about £300-400, that was selling some stuff cheap to mates and I still have the gearbox, swing arm and final drive. Plus £250 for the engine and associated stuff, I sold that cheap because the rest of the bike was so badly rebuilt I felt I had to warn buyers to give the engine a good going over before use. Part out what goods bits you can of your blown engine, probably be looking at similar I guess?

Welding up would have cost around £100-150 (long story there), I machined it myself, prob cost same again if done by a shop?. No idea what beemers go for in the US, but in the UK you'd be looking £800-1500 for one with a good enough engine but bad enough to pull to bits.

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Re: re power a ural?

Postby propwash » Mon Jan 22, 2018 1:50 pm

eastbloc wrote:
gobium wrote:
Resized_20180109_111231.jpeg
Mikuni on my Dnepr
Notice the bowl over flow

Cvk 32 doesnot have over flow only bowl vent


This is what I was wondering. Until I got my BC all of my Urals (except Wolf, which was a brief interlude) had Pekar or Mikuni VMs, manual petcocks, and sometimes leaky floats resulting in the contents of the fuel tank being emptied on the ground, but not into the cylinder.

This seems to be a problem peculiar to the Keihin CVK then?


As you know, pekars overflow the bowl to the ground - the fuel bow vent is BELOW the intake on the head (well for K6x versions). "Tickling" the carbs for initial starting enrichment floods the bowl and fuel drips to the ground out of the vent.
I don't know, but suspect, modern'ish and/or western carbs do not do this by design - think environmental concerns.
Any overflow "safety" port would need to be below the intake port.


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